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Couple Reloading Questions

cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
edited May 2013 in Ask the Experts
First of all, I was able to (I think) score some Tula LR primers today. These are the normal LR primers and NOT the 7.62 NATO LR primers that they produce. In this climate, beggars can't be choosers, and I will be shooting these through a DSA FAL. I have had no problems to date running ammo with LR (non-military cups) through it, and have had no problems running Tula SR primers through an AR.

Does anyone have any experience with Tula LR primers in a semi, more specifically an FAL? Any raised concerns about slam fires?

Question the 2nd, I am light on 7mm-08 brass and heavy on .308 brass, most of which is actually 7.62 brass. I have been wanting to begin reforming .308 brass down to 7mm-08, and am curious to know if there are any reasons why one could not resize some Lake City 7.62 to 7mm. I understand that the case walls of 7.62 brass is thicker, but I understand this to be the case in the case wall only, not the neck area. In my mind, it should work perfectly fine, just reduced the charge by 1-1.5 gr? But then again, I don't claim to be 100% positive of the intricate differences between 7.62 and .308.

Thanks!

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    rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,650 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Neck reaming might be necessary. Specially if it was chambered with a reamer that left the neck area of the chamber on the tight side.

    Measure the ID of some of your fired 7-08 brass. Then run your 7.62 X 51 brass through a full length 7-08 sizer. Measure the ID and compare the dimensions.

    Seat one of the bullets you intend to reload and measure the OD of the neck over the bullet. Compare that measurement with some of your unreloaded 7-08 ammo.

    With a Sharpie Marker cover the neck of the reloaded 7-08 brass and chamber it. See how much of the ink has been lost, after extracting and ejecting the round.
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    llamallama Member Posts: 2,637 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    On the FAL I'd only be concerned about a slam fire if you don't have a safety sear (auto sear) and do have a selector that goes to the A position. Since you have a DSA, you don't have a sear (unless you have a post sample). With no sear, the A position should let the hammer follow, which may allow a slam fire. DSA may have used a semi only selector (has a hook that stops at a pin on the fire setting), or you can replace your selector with one, or fill in the "happy fun" position on your selector w/ jb weld or similar to turn it into a second "safe" position.
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