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Styer 8x56R Ammo

TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
edited February 2002 in Ask the Experts
I have just recently started collecting C&R type rifels. Recently I purchased An M-95 Styer Carbine in 8x56R. I was very surprised when I shot it. It is the most accuret rifel I have. What I want to know is. Is there any other Ammo other than the 1938 Nazi avaible for it? Or how to reload my caseings. I have never reloaded before but I have a friend that has reloading equipment. Thanks for any help.

Comments

  • AdamsQuailHunterAdamsQuailHunter Member Posts: 2,022 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Go to the "want ads" section of this site. Go to page 24 or so --- by the time you see this. The is a question regarding 8X56R ammo with several responses. It was originated by "samhillivy" and the last response was on 1-28-2002 at 2:42 am.
  • steve45steve45 Member Posts: 2,940 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    WOW, Adams you got some kind of memory!
  • oneshyoneshy Member Posts: 417
    edited November -1
    The WWII may be all you'll find from what I've seen. RCBS has the reloading dies. Your brass is probably berdan primed which opens another can of worms. Before you try to reload look into the bottom of the case. If you see 2 holes it is berdan primed which makes it difficult to re-prime, although it can be done. If you get the dies you will also need a shell holder as it seems that this rd. is the only one that uses the RCBS #13 holder. The Old Western Scrounger has reloadable brass. www.snowcrest.net/oldwest/
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Cases can be readily formed from 7.62X54R, but will be a bit short. Dies are available, with shellholder, from Lee, at a cheap price. .323 bullets can be used, though they are undersize; a specialty store like buffaloarms.com will have the proper size, though I suggest you slug your bore diameter. .329 is textbook standard.
    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conference in 1899.
  • TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the information so far. But I now have more questions. What about accuracy with the 7.54R. And is this the brass that western scrounger has? And could you tell me more about the to differnt bullets that were mentioned. I read somewhere that the smaller one would affect accuracy. Wich one would I want to use with which brass? also what is slugging your barrel? And last but not least could you tell me exactly what equipment and supplys I would need to buy for this. My friend has a reloader but he is only set up to reload 7mm. The main thing is I would like to get away from the corosive primers and have some with soft points for hunting wild hogs. Thanks
  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The 8x56 MS not the same beast as a 8x56R Austrian You must remember that OWS converts (reforms) brass to other calibers whenever possiable.If you want the conversion process I can e-mail it to you (Tailgunner@M33Access.com) it is also posted on a thread started by Jonk if you want to do a little digging.bob
  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,673 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Tools-slugging your rifle's bore means to drive a soft lead slug through the barrel from breech to muzzle and then measure the marks left on the slug by the rifling to determine the bore diameter. Believe me, they vary greatly from one rifle to another in this model. However, since yours is so accurate with the surplus ammo you can probably skip this process, as yours must be pretty close to specifications. Yes, getting away from the corrosive primers and making some soft nose hunting rounds is the goal. However, this is an advanced reloading project as currently no factories manufacture non-corrosive hunting rounds for this rifle; nor am I aware of any factory that currently produces any ammo for it at all.You can obtain some ready-made reloadable brass from Bertram Brass which is made in Australia and imported, but it is very expensive--about $38 per box of 20. Huntington is one source for this brass. It may be worth the investment for you though; as if you pick up the brass after firing, you should be able to reload it many times. For this you would only need a set of regular reloading dies. This is the simplest solution.You can also (as stated above) convert 7.62x54R mm Russian to 8x56R mm. This brass was once difficult to find, but now has become much more common due to the many Russian rifles being imported. The fact that the 7.62 brass is a little shorter than the 8x56 brass will not effect accuracy. You are correct to assume that accuracy with the Russian size bullets, which run about .311, will prove inaccurate in your .329 bore. So will 8 mm, .323. You will get the best results with .329 bullets which are available from several sources. To do the 7.62 Russian to 8x56 Hungarian conversion it is best to have a die specially made for the purpose. I got mine from RCBS. It's not cheap--it ran over $80. First you run the 7.62 brass into the conversion die, then proceed as usual with the regular reloading dies. The finished product still isn't quite like the original case, but will fit in the rifle and fire; and fire forms to the exact size, so that when you reload it the second time it is perfect.Hope this clarifies the options for you. If you need any more help post again, and we'll try. I would not be too surprised to see a company like Sellier & Bellot begin making reloadable ammo before too long, as there are a lot of these rifles around and there must be a sizeable market. Meanwhile, we have to "roll our own".
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    You don't really need a special die if you decide to reform brass. You can fireform if you want. Take an empty, primed 7.62X54R case, fill with about 6gr of red dot or other fast burning powder, pour in cornmeal until the case is half full, and seal with a blob of melted wax. Then fire this blank and voila, a perfectly formed case. This is safe and done frequently by some of us who shoot more arcane calibers. It does however require some time loading, and possibly weakens the brass; you may want to anneal (heat the brass for a few seconds near the neck with a torch, then drop in water) first to make it softer and lessen the chance of a cracked case.
    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conference in 1899.
  • oneshyoneshy Member Posts: 417
    edited November -1
    The cases the scrounger has are the proper size for your chamber made by Bertram. I find that Midway also has them $3 cheaper per 20/$31.99. The scrounger has the proper dia. bullets 100/$41.99 tel.530-842-1250. Great Southern Arms has loaded ammo for $.50/rd To reload you will need die set, shell holder, brass, bullets, primers, powder. You can use the same primers and probably powder your buddy uses for his 7mm. You will need the specs. from a powder chart for the proper charge for the particular powder you use. If I were you I would buy as much loaded ammo as possible. The scrounger also has the soft point bullet but he is very proud of them. Have you checked your cases for type of primer? If boxer primed[one hole]you are in luck. If berdan [2 holes] post back and we'll have to go to plan B.
  • TOOLS1TOOLS1 Member Posts: 6,133
    edited November -1
    Hi GuysThanks for the information so far.All of the surplus 8X56R on the market that I have found is berdan primed.The sugestion of using the 7.62X54 sounds good so far and I have been looking for an excuse to by a M-38 I have found. Up untill now I had kind of ingnored the Moison nagents because thay are all over the place.
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