last model 11 question,i promise

PotatoBob

How do you adjust the friction ring for light loads.Yesterday light loads wouldnt eject,today,after i had it apart for cleaning,they worked.It was by accident that i adjusted whatever...?Sorry for all the questions but i like to learn all i can about my guns,especially my older ones.Thanks

duckhunter

TWO THING COULD HAVE HAPPENED. I HAVE BEEN SHOOTING MODEL 11'S FOR MORE YEARS THAN I LIKE TO REMEMBER. 1, THE CLEANING COULD MAKE THE DIFFERENCE. 2, YOU TURNED OVER THE FRICTION RING. THIS CAUSES THE RING TO SLIDE EASER ON THE MAG TUBE, ERGO THE GUN IS ALLOWED TO CYCLE. THESE GUNS WORK BETTER THE MORE THEY ARE SHOT.

I WOULD RATHER BE DUCK HUNTING.

101AIRBORNE

Bob,
I own three of these and have never had a problem. I do know that the position of the friction ring assembly is fairly important. I can not recall if you place the friction rings in front of the spring or under the spring for light/vs heavy loads. Mine are on top of the spring and never had a problem with any loading. Shoot Chris an E-Mail
Vintage3@bellsouth.net He is a super person and will advise you.
Best, Steve

PotatoBob

Thanks alot guys

bullelk

Bob,
The friction ring goes against the receiver, with the bevel towards the receiver for Light loads.
For Heavy loads, the friction ring goes in front of, and against the spring with the bevel foward.
In both cases the large brass ring stays against the barrel lug, with the bevel of that facing foward into the barrel lug.
If you have any problem understanding this, send me your e-mail address and I'll send you a couple of detailed pictures of it.
Gino

---

bullelk@psouth.net

"If All Else Fails, Read The Directions"



Edited by - bullelk on 05/26/2002 19:54:02

v35

There's a bit of wrong advice here that can lead to cracked forends. The way to remember the arrangement is to understand how it works.
The barrel lug and the steel ring each have a bevel which causes the friction brake to clamp onto the barrel. For high base loads you want maximum clamping so you have both bevels against the friction brake. For light loads, you turn the steel washer around to face the spring so only one bevel acts on the friction brake.
It is important that the magazine tube is is dry or the brake will be ineffective and the stock will crack.

gundummy

Potato - don't hold back, ask all the questions you want. That's what this forum is for. As much as alot of these experts won't admit, they too learned alot from the questions/answers that come out from guys like you. Just be careful on taking some of the possible wrong answers and advice because you might hurt yourself or others around you. GD

MIKE WISKEY

V35- RE: DRY MAG. TUBE-YOU SHOULD HAVE A SMALL AMOUNT OF LUBE ON THE TUBE OTHERWISE THE LARGE BRASS RING CAN SEIZE AND DAMAGE THE TUBE. A LIGHT SPRAY WITH REM OIL OR SIMMILAR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERL M-11'S AND A-5'S DAMAGED LIKE THIS.

bullelk

v35,
If you were referring to my post, I described it exactly like it says in the manual. Maybe I didn't use the correct terminology on the large brass ring, but there is only one like it on the gun, so it shouldn't be that confusing. The correct terminology for those parts are, the bronze friction piece, friction spring, and barrel guide ring.

The reason for the friction ring with the bevel against the receiver is so the spring won't damage the area inside the bevel. If you put the friction ring in front of the spring, with the bevel facing the spring, you will have steel against steel, which in turn will cause some damage to the bevel.

I sent PotatoBob pictures from my manual to go by. He replied, and was satisfied with the description. I think if you read it closely, it's alright. If not, I stand to be corrected.


Gino

"If All Else Fails, Read The Directions"



Edited by - bullelk on 05/29/2002 18:40:45