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M-1 Garand problem

diamondpetediamondpete Member Posts: 71 ✭✭
edited June 2013 in Ask the Experts
I have a M-1 Garand(converted to .308-probably not relevant). The issue is that the in block loaded clip will not latch into the mag well. I have found that if I remove the recoil spring it will latch in ever time. It seem to be a case of the clip not going in quite far enough to latch in. I have also observed that even when the recoil spring is installed but the gun is not assembled the clip will sometime latch, but if I install the trigger group it will not at all. Any suggestions on this would be appreciated.

Comments

  • diamondpetediamondpete Member Posts: 71 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The bolt on my M-1 Garand will not fully retract without extra effort. It fires and ejects okay, but I have to push the operating rod forward to chamber the next round. An additional problem is the safety doesn't work. Any advice would be appreciated.

    diamondpete
  • AmbroseAmbrose Member Posts: 3,221 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I find my M1's work MUCH better when gun grease is applied to metal to metal surfaces, especially the locking lugs. If you haven't done that, give it a try.

    When you say the safety doesn't work, won't move or won't lock?
  • Emmett DunhamEmmett Dunham Member Posts: 1,418 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Check to make sure that the guide on the follower moves back and forth freely. I would take all of the small parts out of the rifle and check to make sure the bolt and op-rod move freely and then follow the instructions to put the rifle together and lubricate it right. This link will give you all the info you need to get the rifle assembled correctly.

    http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/

    Emmett
  • diamondpetediamondpete Member Posts: 71 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The safety won't go on safe. It will move slightly, but not enough to put the gun on safe. The safety was missing in the trigger group that I purchased. I installed a new one, and everything seems correct, but won't go fully into safety. I will try lubing every thing and see if that helps. Thanks for the info.
    diamondpete
  • Emmett DunhamEmmett Dunham Member Posts: 1,418 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The safety will not go on unless you have the rifle cocked.

    Emmett
  • diamondpetediamondpete Member Posts: 71 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the tip on the safety. I tried the safety several ways, but not sure I tried it in the firing position. That would solve one problem. I will break the rifle down again tomorrow and see it lubing it wit hsomething heavier than light oil.
  • cranky2cranky2 Member Posts: 3,236 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm not an expert by any means. The directions say to lube with grease not oil.
  • AmbroseAmbrose Member Posts: 3,221 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    As Cranky said: Grease (those tiny screw-top containers if you can find one) NOT oil.
  • ap55ap55 Member Posts: 167 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Why don't you get a book on them,maybe someone here can recomend one.
  • diamondpetediamondpete Member Posts: 71 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have several books, but none tell you what is wrong when you have a problem that isn't necessarily in the books. I've found that forum people are the best trouble shooters out there. I have corrected the safety problem with lube and more pressure. I am still working on why the operating rod binds at the operating rod catch assembly. It can be locked into the operating catch, but takes a lot of pressure. The bolt locks okay in the closed mode, but when cycling it is smooth until it reaches the catch assembly. When I get time will replace the operating rod and spring from another of my Garands. Thanks to all for your imput.

    Garrett
  • riley priley p Member Posts: 217 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hi: I don't like to call myself an "expert" on anything though i've got a fair bit of seasoning on Garands. Last one I encountered with similar problems was all but new and the Op rod was all but 100% full of grease. So much so that the spring was binding up in the ancient gunk. Cleaned out it ran just fine. Another one that didn't run had the operating rod rubbing on the nearly new (CMP) stock both in the channel and where the handle fits in the slot.

    Take the action out of the stock and remove the spring and guide rod from the OP rod. With the bolt and OP correctly installed in the action, the action should open "by its self" as you tilt the action muzzle high at about 45 degrees. It should close around 45 degrees muzzle down. If it does, the problem is probably with the stock. If not, I'd be you have a "bent" OP rod. I'm assuming you put the trigger group together correctly but the fact that it shoots. Hope these thoughts help.
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