Realist scope

1trigger

Here is the scope that is mounted on my Winchester. Saw were this name was used on some Vietnam era rifles, but not sure if this is the same model or if it's that old. Looks newer.

Use it to look down the block and I don't see a BIG difference between it and the Redfield I have on the Remington, even though they are different magnifications.

That brings up a point that would probably be answered in the field, with application, but that's going to be a while. Why use the lower end of the magnification range, when you have the higher? Is it used to scan and locate a target before zeroing in on it?

Thanks

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TWalker

Realist scopes were made from 1965-1974. These were made in the USA I believe. They are really good scopes with constantly centered reticles, alloy tubes, and nitrogen filled. They got good reviews from gun writers in the 60's and 70's. I couldn't make out the numbers on the power ring. I know it's a variable, possibly a 3-9. It could also be a 3-7 0r 1 1/2-4 1/2.Value is around $100. They did make a Auto Range model. They have two extra crosshairs or reticles used to bracket the target. Then a trajectory cam is turned. This adjusts the aiming crosshair automatically for the correct distance eliminating hold over. Value of an auto/range Realist scope is $275-475 with mount and cam. The reason most people carry a scope set on low power is to increase the field of view. Going to high power reduces field of view making it hard to locate the target. Many times I've seen hunters get frustrated because they couldn't find the target or animal in the scope that was set on too high a power. I'd keep the scope, it is a good match for your 60's era Winchester rifle made after 1964.

1trigger

Thanks TWalker!

This scope is the 1.5x 4.5x model. It has a standard crosshair, but the left.right and lower lines are thicker almost to the middle. This scope looks to be in pretty good condition, so I will hold onto it, though a little more power would be nice.

I found a vey clear explanation on scope terminology and application from OpticsPlanet.com that just confirms the range/power question I had. Nice article
http://www.opticsplanet.com/how-to-choose-riflescope.html

There is a pretty nice range being reconditioned up north a ways and as soon as I get a chance to shoot this 30-06/Realist combo, I'll know better what it, and I, can do.

Thanks again

beantownshootah

quote:That brings up a point that would probably be answered in the field, with application, but that's going to be a while. Why use the lower end of the magnification range, when you have the higher? Is it used to scan and locate a target before zeroing in on it?

Usually, spotting/scanning for game is done with a conventional pair of binoculars. Those give you a much wider field of view, typically a brighter picture, are binocular for depth perception, faster to point and swing, and don't require you to move your rifle around (which has its own set of associated negative issues).

In general, in any form of shooting, you want to use the lowest magnification practical for a given shot.

The reasons are that lower magnification makes it a LOT easier to find your target in the scope, follow it (if not still), and give you a much better idea of what's AROUND/BEHIND your target (remember your gun safety rules). Lower magnification also lets more light in, giving a brighter overall picture, and reduces "wobble" making it a bit psychologically easy to connect.

Remember, people have been hunting with firearms for hundreds of years with NO magnification, just iron sights. For most conventional hunting (which is done at 100 yards or less), you don't "need" ANY magnification at all, and even a small amount (say 1.5-5x) goes a long way.

I think the biggest novice mistake with scopes is to crank them all the way up to the highest magnification, thinking its going to help them connect. Its not true. . .doing that just makes it harder to get on target, and place the shot. You always want to start at the lowest magnification you have, and get the target into your field of view. At that point, if necessary, you may increase the magnification just enough to the point where you can confidently place the shot.

1trigger

Sounds good! It's that "point of confidence" that I'll be looking to establish at the range. I'm going to keep this Realist scope, but down the road there is probably a better one for me that balances my old eyes, lens size, power and all that stuff.

Thanks