How To Remove Glass Bedding?

Fairlane66

How does one go about removing or shaving away glass bedding from a wooden stock? I have a Pre-64 Winchester Model 70 Westerner (264 Mag circa 1962) that has a cracked stock. I bought a near-new Pre-64 264 Westerner stock (also circa 1962) that has some epoxy in the lug area. Unfortunately, my barreled action, particularly the recoil lug, won't fit into the slot. It appears the bedding was done to accommodate a rifle with a slightly narrower recoil lug than mine. I think my action will fit if I can shave some epoxy off the back of the recoil lug. I don't want to screw this up since I paid a bushel for this new stock and it'd be nearly impossible to find another. How should I proceed? Does this call for a Dremel or something similar? Would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

k.stanonik

Dremel with a flex shaft attachment will give you better control, gentle and slow is the way to go.

CapnMidnight

I agree with that, it's the way I do it.
W.D.

Ray B

I prefer a handheld air tool. For me they are much easier to control than the electric motors.

Dokey

Dremel with the flex shaft and a 1/8" carbide bit

navc130

If it "almost" fits, you may be able to shave the area with a sharp chisle. However, most probably you will have to "hog out" the area until the action will drop in and then re-epoxy for a new fit. The new epoxy will adhere to the old epoxy.

asphalt cowboy

Do you intend to bed your barreled action to the new stock?
If you do, then a dremel would be fine. Just work carefully and diligently so's not to grind the wood below the bedding.

If you don't plan to bed I would use an abrasive nail file.
Remove the rounded end on a bench grinder or sander so you have a square end with 90 degree corners.
When you start "filing" the bedding remove an even amount across the face and cut just a whisker and check with your action. Work slowly and diligently so you don't remove to much material. If you remove to much you run the risk of your action moving to the rear and splitting the stock behind the tang.

Fairlane66

Thanks for all the good advice. I know have a clear idea of how to proceed. The common thread seems to be "slow and steady." Thanks again.

charliemeyer007

I have a Exacto knife set with gouges and chisels and a General Tool needle file set. Flex bit Dremel with sanding drum and burrs. Bearing Blue or old lipstick. I you re-epoxy/glass make sure to treat your metal at least twice with release agent.

azpowerwagon

Would suggest to remove material from the FRONT of the recoil lug mortise first. The actions are pretty standard on the action screw spacing within models. If you enlarge the mortise to the rear you run the risk of moving the entire action to the rear, as noted. Best of luck.

nononsense

Fairlane66,

The best and most accurate method that gunsmiths use is a milling machine and a 3/16" cutter. The stock is controlled in a vise while the recoil lug area is enlarged. This should be done towards the muzzle as cautioned above.

Dremel tools can be a tool of the Devil when operated by the wrong hands. No offense but too many of us see the results of amateurs and Dremel tools.

Best.