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BARREL BEDDING

nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
edited June 2002 in Ask the Experts
What is involved in bedding a barrel? I've built a short range coyote gun from an M1 carbine and folding Choate stock. I'm not real comfortable about how the barrelled action fits in the stock, as the barrel is really only supported at the end of the stock where it is clamped. I know I haven't got a tack driver, but want to give myself the best accuracy possible. Seems like I've got a lot of space in the stock below the barrel that should be filled for barrel support. What do you think? What would I use?
Thanks!
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Comments

  • nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I HAVE A SAVAGE MOD 10FP 308 ,ALSO HAVE THE CHOATE STOCK NOT INSTALLED FOR HUNTING.I USED THE FACTORY STOCK AND HAVE BEEN SWITCHING BACK AND FORTH DO I NEED A SMITH TO BED THEM? DO THEY NEED TO BE DONE FOR EACH TIME?HOPE THIS IS NOT A STUPID ??

    THANKS
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  • nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I HAVE A SAVAGE MOD 10FP 308 ,ALSO HAVE THE CHOATE STOCK NOT INSTALLED FOR HUNTING.I USED THE FACTORY STOCK AND HAVE BEEN SWITCHING BACK AND FORTH DO I NEED A SMITH TO BED THEM? DO THEY NEED TO BE DONE FOR EACH TIME?HOPE THIS IS NOT A STUPID ??

    THANKS
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  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,673 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Firstly--how does it shoot in each stock? If you're satisfied with the way it shoots in one or both stocks there is no need to do any bedding work. If you are dissatisfied and have bedding work done to one or both stocks there is still nothing to prevent you from changing back and forth--bedding does not permanently attach the stock to the action. Bedding is usually a one time thing. You would only have to do the job again if you rebarrelled your action to a barrel with a different profile, etc.
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  • 101AIRBORNE101AIRBORNE Member Posts: 1,252 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    nelchris,
    Just wondered why you would want to swap stocks so much.
    The Savage is not a rare collectable. Heck, my pre 1964
    Winchester Model 70/s look like they saw more action in Asia
    than I did. They are not collectable after nearly 39 years of
    hunting. Just interested in your reasoning. Good Hunting.
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  • nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    THANKS DER ,I THINK THE CHOATE STOCK WAS ALREADY BEDDED. HOW CAN I TELL??BOTH SHOOT IN THE 1/2 TO 3/4 AT 100 WITH FACTORY AMMO.
    101 THE CHOATE STOCK HAS RISSER AND PULL AJUSTMENTS AND WEIGHTS AROUND 12 POUNDS GREAT FOR THE BENCH BUT AS FAR AS DEER HUNTING I COULD NEVER CARRY IT VERY FAR I DID CARRY IT 2 YEARS AGO AND DID I GET ALOT OF LOOKS MY BUDDY WAS STOPPED BY THE DNR ,I WAS SITTING ON WOODS EDGE AND THEY WERE GLASSING ME THEY THOUGHT I WAS HUNTING WITH A 50 BMG

    THANKS
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  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,673 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Good Grief, Son--sounds like you've already got the accuracy many dream of! Do nothing to your stocks! As for how to tell on your Choate if it's been bedded--just look for something that appears added and is not the material of the original stock. Resin mixed with fibreglas or steel particles is usually used, and probably won't be the exact shade of the stock. Synthetic stocks for standard model rifles are usually molded from an original rifle, or a dummy copy of one, and come pretty close to being bedded from the factory.
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  • 101AIRBORNE101AIRBORNE Member Posts: 1,252 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Nel,

    Der has it correct on bedding. I was just curious about the two stocks. My gracious, 12 lbs.? I would consider a slightly lighter arm.
    My pre 64/M-70- in .30govt.06 / standard weight w/ Leupold 3X10X50 in
    Buehler mounts only weighs 8.2lbs. My featherweight w/ B&L 2.5x8 in
    Kuharsky mounts weighs about 7.9lbs.
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  • 101AIRBORNE101AIRBORNE Member Posts: 1,252 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    If cost is the factor, go w/whatever you can manage. Twelve lbs.
    is just too much for me. Go that far, may as well carry a M-60
    if p


    roperly licensed. That was an adder. Good luck and keep hunting.


    Best, Steve
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  • varmit huntervarmit hunter Member Posts: 1,674 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I go along with DerGerb.You don't have a problem.So DON'T fix it.

    The most important things, Are not things.
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  • nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    THANKS FOR EVERYONES IMPUT, THE FACTORY STOCK IS ALOT LIGHTER AND STILL SHOOTS GOOD ENOUGH I THINK I WILL SELL THE CHOATE SNIPER STOCK

    THANKS AGAIN
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  • easygo6easygo6 Member Posts: 1,465 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    We'll be looking for that stock on GB.com

    SEMPER FI
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  • nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    THIS GUN WE ARE TALKING ABOUT IS A SAVAGE 10FP 308 BULL BARREL WITH A WEAVER 6X20X40 FINE HAIR, COSTOM TRIGER AROUND 24OZ PULL SMOOTH! HARRIS SWIVEL BIPOD LETS NOT FORGET THE HEAVY CHOATE AJT STOCK WHATS IT WORTH? WWW.NELSTEVE712@NETSCAPE.NET
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  • kimberkidkimberkid Member Posts: 8,858 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    nelchris
    I have a Choate Varminter stock for my Remington 308 VSSF, plus I have a big JP Recoil Eleminator on it; So I know what you mean about the "looks" These stocks have aluminum pillars built in at the mounting lugs so bedding isn't necessary.



    I really like the Choate for shooting off the bench, I've added 6 pounds lead shot for weight in the stock and pistolgrip, combined with the break, it's kick is milder than an AR-15 ... The total weight is just over 22 pounds, but I can watch my bullet impact through the scope even at 100 yards ... and for some reason, no one will sit next to me at the range when I'm shooting it

    =================================
    The only bad thing about choosing a Kimber ...
    ... there are so darn many models to choose from!
    kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com
    If you really desire something, you'll find a way ?
    ? otherwise, you'll find an excuse.
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