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bluing vs. painting

WoundedWolfWoundedWolf Member Posts: 1,658 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited December 2005 in Ask the Experts
From the threads I have read, bluing sounds like a major pain.

I have a MAS 1936 (WWII French bolt-action rifle). Some consider it a C&R, but I bought it six years ago at Big 5 for $60 and I see some going for maybe $100 here on GB, so not exactly a collector's gold mine. Anyway, I decided to tune this rifle up for shooting, since the C&R value was not going anywhere. My tuning caused some of the bluing to wear away in a couple places. I hate to leave the bare metal exposed, so I bought some Rustoleum paint, the high heat kind for barbeques and so forth.

I haven't painted it yet, but I'm thinking of disassembling the gun and coating all the metal with the Rustoleum. So, my questions are:

1. Is this a good idea or is painting a gun considered a no no?
2. If it is okay, then how does the paint hold up to firing and regular cleaning with gun solvent?
3. If cleaning is okay, then should I still oil the metal too?
4. If I ever decide to strip the paint, will it take the original bluing with it?
5. How might this affect the value of the gun? (not that concerned with this, since I don't think this is gonna be a big collector's item)
6. If painting is okay, is my choice of paint okay, or is there another brand/type I should go with?

All feedback is appreciated.

wwsm.GIF
MOLON LABE




The Second Amendment begins when the First Amendment ends.

Comments

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    One shotOne shot Member Posts: 1,027
    edited November -1
    On some aluminum or potmetal parts I spray them and bake at about 300 deree's. This tends to leave a vary nice and durable finish. I think this trick is also toched on in Brownells Gunsmith Kinks 2. I have bought some pretty nasty looking butched military rifles and used this method to make a some what pleasant finish without tying up a bunch of money.

    "The most persistent sound which reverberates through man's history is the beating of war drums."
    Arthur Koestler, UK
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    WoundedWolfWoundedWolf Member Posts: 1,658 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks, One shot.

    Any other opinions out there?

    wwsm.GIF
    MOLON LABE




    The Second Amendment begins when the First Amendment ends.
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    iwannausernameiwannausername Member Posts: 7,131
    edited November -1
    I used "bar-b-q black" high temp paint to redo my mini-14, worked great. Also used it on my mossberg 500, again worked great. Only issue is getting a nice smooooth even coat. Plan on hanging with a coat hanger and painting from multiple angles, and do several light coats - you don't want drips/runs.
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    He DogHe Dog Member Posts: 50,964 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You are correct that painting would destroy any potential collector value. If that is not an issue, as in your case, you are certainly free to do what you want and you have gotten some ideas. I have to ask though, if it is a couple of small areas, why disassemble and paint? Why not just do a cold blue touch up?
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    mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by WoundedWolf
    From the threads I have read, bluing sounds like a major pain.

    I have a MAS 1936 (WWII French bolt-action rifle). Some consider it a C&R, but I bought it six years ago at Big 5 for $60 and I see some going for maybe $100 here on GB, so not exactly a collector's gold mine. Anyway, I decided to tune this rifle up for shooting, since the C&R value was not going anywhere. My tuning caused some of the bluing to wear away in a couple places. I hate to leave the bare metal exposed, so I bought some Rustoleum paint, the high heat kind for barbeques and so forth.

    I haven't painted it yet, but I'm thinking of disassembling the gun and coating all the metal with the Rustoleum. So, my questions are:

    1. Is this a good idea or is painting a gun considered a no no?

    Not a problem at all......
    2. If it is okay, then how does the paint hold up to firing and regular cleaning with gun solvent?

    It will hold up just fine, but some of the harsh cleaners may remove the paint, but then just repaint it....
    3. If cleaning is okay, then should I still oil the metal too?

    It's not nessasary to oil the paint........
    4. If I ever decide to strip the paint, will it take the original bluing with it?

    It might , but i doubt it.....
    5. How might this affect the value of the gun? (not that concerned with this, since I don't think this is gonna be a big collector's item)

    If you tuned it it m ay not be a collector anyways.....
    6. If painting is okay, is my choice of paint okay, or is there another brand/type I should go with?

    Your choice is good, and they also have a textured paint thar works well, plus the shake and bake type from Brownells..

    All feedback is appreciated.

    wwsm.GIF
    MOLON LABE




    The Second Amendment begins when the First Amendment ends.


    Gun control is hitting what your aiming at.
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    WoundedWolfWoundedWolf Member Posts: 1,658 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Why not just do a cold blue touch up?

    I've never done any bluing, so I guess it is just my fear of the unknown. Spray painting is easy, I've done it a hundred times. The other threads made it sound like you had to be a chemical engineer to get bluing to come out right. I'm also thinking of consistency, I don't know how a "touch up" blue would come out, whereas I'm pretty sure I can lay down a nice consistent coat of spray paint and make it look real nice.

    I don't think this gun was ever issued or fired, it is a CAI import from the 90's (with marks), it came caked in cosmoline, shoots the obsolete 7.5 French cartridge. I cleaned it once with Outer's solvent (to break down the cosmoline) and then heavily reoiled with Outer's oil and stored it away. It is a beautiful gun, metal is in great shape, stamp marks are clear and unworn, no scratches. The wood stock is beautiful with a nice fine grain. A light sanding and lacquer would really spruce it up.

    After seeing that there was really no collector value to it, I decided to see what it would take to utilize this rifle. I read up on how to take it down here:

    http://www.surplusrifle.com/mas36/fulldisassemble/

    I bought some cheap screwdrivers that I custom ground to accomodate the special French "two-point" screws, but inevitibly I ended up nicking the metal a bit around the screws and the forestock band. The nicks and wearing are noticable, so that is what got me thinking about covering up the metal with pain.

    I also bought 15 rounds of 7.5 French on stripper clips. My plan is to test fire these 15 rounds just to make sure that the gun is sound. The only current manufacturer of 7.5 French is a Portuguese company, and these cartridges sell for about 50 cents per round, not very economical. So the 7.5 will not work for a utility rifle, but there is a guy in Alaska that makes chamber inserts that will convert this gun to a 7.62x39 bolt action. I've heard mixed reviews on the chamber insert, but I'm willing to try it. The insert can be removed with a cartridge puller at any time, so I don't really have much to lose. If it works then I will have a handy little 7.62x39 bolt action. Otherwise I have an obsolete MAS-36, which is what I have now.

    My plan is to degrease all the metal with rubbing alcohol, then coat with the Rustoleum. Maybe I will post pics for you all when I get it finished.

    Thanks for all the responses.

    -Wolf

    wwsm.GIF
    MOLON LABE




    The Second Amendment begins when the First Amendment ends.
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    ern98ern98 Member Posts: 1,725 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are several products out there designed for just your problem. Brownells Oxpro Blue is my favorite, but I read good things about blue wonder and other cold blue product. If all you have to do is fix where you removed the old blue you might try one of these before embarking on a painting project. Brownells also sells sveral bake on enamals which are good. I've also used, in the past, grill type hi temp satin black with excellent results. I guess it all comes down to how much you want to do. If the cold blue dosen't work you can always spray later.....
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    11b6r11b6r Member Posts: 16,588 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Before you whip out the spray can, try some of the cold blues- if you don't like the results, you can still paint over it. With cold blue, the key (for me) has been to have an oil free surface- totally. Degrease well. I use Van's Instant Blue and get REALLY good results- about 10 bucks for a 6 oz bottle. Have heard good words about Oxphoblue as well. HOT Caustic bluing does require a bit of a chemistry set, and does use some fairly dangerous chemicals. RUST bluing is pretty simple, great finish, just takes a LOT of patience. DO spend time prepping the metal before you try any bluing. Good luck, and let us know how it comes out.

    "I have good news and bad. Make it through, you don't have to prove anything to anyone the rest of your life. Bad news- you have to prove it to me first." CSM, US Army Ranger School.
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