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AR-15 Post/Pre Ban

110110 Member Posts: 125 ✭✭
edited March 2002 in Ask the Experts
Just wanted to know if you could convert a pre ban upper to comply with a post ban lower. Can you cut the bayonet lug off and have the flash hider soldered on?? Thanks for the info.
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Comments

  • GreenLanternGreenLantern Member Posts: 1,647 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think you'd still have to remove the flash hider. Otherwise you'd still have the protruding pistol grip and the flash hider and that makes 2 evil items. It's ok to only have 1 evil item.
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  • TxsTxs Member Posts: 17,809 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    How about replacing the flash hider with a soldered on muzzle brake? If you want the rifle to look "right", several companies are making these that closely resemble a standard issue flash suppressor.
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  • 110110 Member Posts: 125 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The design I had in mind was the M4 with the long surpressor. The only one I can find is the pre ban upper.
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  • bigdog1bigdog1 Member Posts: 193 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just had Bill Wilson's outfit install their " tactical Post-ban Muzzle brake" on a post-ban upper. Cost about $ 100.00 complete with shipping BOTH ways. Brake has the exact outward appearance and shape as the "evil" A2 suppressor. Wilson's shop threaded the barrel and then blind pinned the brake on so that it is 100% compliance with the ATF. The brake looks fantastic. Don't know about the noise level because I haven't shot the rifle yet, but I can tell you that the workmanship was absolutely first class. Turnaround was about 4 weeks. Will post results after I shoot the rifle. I have heard stories of brakes that were secured by set screws flying downrange after extended shooting sessions, so I elected to go with Wilson. Besides, he was cheaper than having the same work done locally by some yahoo wannabe....
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  • gurngurn Member Posts: 57 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I put a cavalry arms muzzle brake on my preban upper. It has a pre drilled hole in it. Once you put it on, you drill into the barrel a little, tap in the roll pin and weld the hole closed. I also put a weld from the muzzle brake across the washer to the barrel. I lopped off the bayonet lug too. The brake itself is a little bit larger in diameter than an original; you cant put a dust cap on. It has the same profile as an original. It won't fly off, that's for sure. Don't weld a regular flash hider on, it's still illegal. Tha Cav arms one was like $20 and comes in whatever finish you want. As for noise, I wear ear plugs, before it was loud and it still is.
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  • kimberkidkimberkid Member Posts: 8,858 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    110It can be done with a long suppressor if you have the suppressor sleeved so the slots are blocked, then attach using the "blind pin" method. I know a guy that can do this for you, contact me directly and I'll give you his email address.I cut this from a post of his describing the process:Let me sleeve and neuter your original flash hiders and keep them BATF legal. You can keep the original look and feel your rifle was intended to have and even retain any original factory markings and proof marks. I start by taking your evil, illegal flash hider and bore it out to accept a steel sleeve with an inside diameter of .350. That leaves plenty of clearance for the projectile to pass, but doesn't look too large as some fake FH's that I have seen. The steel tube is then notched on both ends to accept high temp silver solder. The tube is then pressed into the flash hider and heated to 1200 degrees to permanantly fix it to the device. At this point we will no longer call it a flash hider so the Federal Gods will be appeased. We will now call it a muzzle device. After the tube is secure I machine a nice looking crown on the muzzle end. I then neuter the bayonet lug by rendering it unuseable. This can be done in several ways and still retain much of the original look. The device also has to be slightly altered so as not to be able to accept or fire any live grenades that you might have laying around the home. Grenade launching has been a major problem for the alphabet boys over the years. When the muzzle device is completely and legally neutered I refinish it in your choice of zinc phosphate(light gray), Manganese phosphate(dark gray), black oxide(matte or polished black) or your choice of any color high temp paint. These have to be permanantly attached to your muzzle by high temp solder, weld or blind pin. I offer this service as well.
    Here's a thought: Let's make criminals responsible for their crimes ... ...Not blame society and the tools they use!kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com
    If you really desire something, you'll find a way ?
    ? otherwise, you'll find an excuse.
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  • Mr. LoboMr. Lobo Member Posts: 538 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Kimberkid sounds like he has the right approach. I do not believe that you can thread the barrel even if you solder on the muzzle brake. I could be wrong though. Kimber how much does your gunsmith charge?Jim[This message has been edited by Mr. Lobo (edited 03-16-2002).]
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