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Bending bolt handles

DENWADENWA Member Posts: 390 ✭✭✭
edited June 2002 in Ask the Experts
Have any of you bend a straight bolt handle?

Can't I just heat the dang thing to cherry in my vise then bend it?
What about heat treating? I was just wondering if this is feasable or should I just replace the handle with one of those drill and tap jobs?


thanks
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Comments

  • kimberkidkimberkid Member Posts: 8,858 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think the main reason they make bending jigs is to protect the bolt from being gouged or otherwise damaged ... even though its "cherry red" you still have to use a hammer to presuade the handle to bend. If your vise has teeth in the jaws it will gouge the finish, if the jaws are smooth you will have to get it really tight to hold in place which may crush the bolt ...

    =================================
    The only bad thing about choosing a Kimber ...
    ... there are so darn many models to choose from!
    kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com
    If you really desire something, you'll find a way ?
    ? otherwise, you'll find an excuse.
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  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Don't forget the heat sink, and even with one you may have to re-heat treat the cocking cam. There are pre-bent handles available (from brownells) thet you TIG weld on (after cutting off most of the origional handle)
    Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.
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  • NighthawkNighthawk Member Posts: 12,022 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Tried the idea several years back and I ended up buying a new bolt!

    Good luck

    Rugster
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  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Tried it on a couple of Jap bolt years ago with the bolt protected with a heat sink. No matter how hot you made the handle it would crack. The cleanest job is to cut and weld. That way you can more easily protect the bolt from overheating, get the bend exactly where you want it and be sure to clear the scope eyepiece.
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  • jokor3jokor3 Member Posts: 75 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    IF YOU DO SUCCEED IN BENDING THE BOLT TO YOUR PREFERRED POSITION, THE HEAT TREAT IT WHILE STILL HOT BY DIPPING THE BOLT INTO OIL, THEREBY RECREATING A CASE HARDENED AFFECT.

    joe c knight
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  • jokor3jokor3 Member Posts: 75 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    WHEN DIPPING THE BOLT IN OIL YOU REESTABLISH THE METALS TEMPER THAT WAS GREATLY REDUCED BY THE EXCESS HEAT NECESSARY TO BEND IT.

    joe c knight
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  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,673 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The preferred way is to cut the old bolt handle off and weld on a new one, but you can heat and bend it; and they do make bolt bending (forging) blocks to assist in the operation and to help protect the bolt. These are available from Brownells as Item # 080-941-500. In addition to using a heat sink you would be wise to use heat stop paste (also sold by Brownells) on the cocking cam area and around the bolt body between the handle and the forward locking lugs. Very often a complaint is heard that a bent military bolt handle becomes "too short"--one reason why a new welded on handle is better. You can largely overcome this problem by cutting the handle almost through at the desired point of bend; but not quite, leaving perhaps 1/8th inch uncut at the bottom to act as a hinge. Heat the cut area very hot (almost to melting) and then gently tap downward on the bolt handle. Bend the handle down to where you desire it to be, and then weld up the now much wider cut. Dress the excess down with a file and polish. The result is a handle that resembles that of a 1903 Springfield, and is a little longer than if you just bend it, because you have an angle rather than a curve.
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  • I.ShuteI.Shute Member Posts: 647 ✭
    edited November -1
    One way I do it is to saw 3/4 through from the top, heat and bend to where you want it, secure the end in a jig and Tig weld the joint. I made a heat sink of 3/4" brass round stock, about 5'' long, turned it to .685, drilled through lenght-wise with a 9/32 drill, sawed it in two at a sharp angle at one end. Put in a 1/4" through bolt and when you tighten it, it expands and gives you excellent heat transfer. Hanging a wet rag on the end sticking out helps, too.
    I also clamp a 2 piece aluminum sink on the front end.
    Most bent bolts won't clear a low scope anyway and look ugly too.
    The bolt handles you buy make a better looking job with less work.
    You still need the heat sink.
    I'll send a picture of it if you'd like.
    haywire27@webtv.net

    IShaywire27@webtv.net
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  • I.ShuteI.Shute Member Posts: 647 ✭
    edited November -1
    Der:
    I didn't mean to step on your excellent information, but wife's 1 hour phone call delayed the posting of mine and didn't see yours.
    I hold the bolt knob in a jig to keep it from raising as the weld shrinks.
    IS
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  • rsnyder55rsnyder55 Member Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I understand some bolt handles are welded on. Would this affect the decision on whether to try or not?
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  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,673 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Good information, I.Shute. As for your question, rsnyder55, the thrust of DENWA's original question seems to be about the alteration of straight bolt handles as found on military mausers. You'll find civilian bolt handles attached in several ways, but it is seldom necessary to alter them as they usually come "bent" from the factory to allow clearance when a scope is mounted.
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  • allen griggsallen griggs Member Posts: 35,619 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I bent the bolt on a Swede Mauser. Held the bolt in vice grips. Heated it with a K-Mart propane torch. Heated it for about 5 min, I forget what color it got to. I got channel lock pliers and it bent right over, to my surprise. Then, remembering work done by my blacksmith buddy, I quenched it in motor oil. The bolt is now discolored but it works fine.

    "Not as deep as a well, or as wide as a church door, but it is enough."
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