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Stock Finish Recommendations
Mike Fink
Member Posts: 274 ✭✭✭
I am in need of some stock finish that is tough and has a good "sheen" to it. I use the "in the wood" multi coat method for good results. I don't use sprays. Anyone with experience using the product would be appreciated.-Thanks, Mike
Comments
If you get a scratch or dent in your stock, lightly sand it, steam out the dent, apply the above finish until it matches.
This is very close to original pre 64 Winchester finish, works very well for toughing up old stocks.
W.D.
It dries fast and just keep adding coats until you get the gloss you want. Let it dry about 12 hours between coats
I use 1000 to 1500 grit wet dry sandpaper to APPLY the coats. The fine wet sanding with the sandpaper loaded with the oil as it's being applied works wonders.
The sheen conditioner is used to reduce the gloss if you get it too glossy. Use the sheen conditioner after the stock completely dried.
A little bit of it goes a long way so use cautiously. If you remove to much gloss, just clean and add more tru-oil again.
Read the instruction paper two or three times. I do not use the steel wool between coats mentioned in the instructions, just get one sheet of wet dry 1000-1500 grit wet dry sandpaper from NAPA auto supply instead of using the steel wool.
You can take the stock to a gloss that looks like high gloss polyerthene if desired. What's also nice about the tru oil method is if you scratch or bang it just rework the damaged area and go at it with tru-oil and it will blend into the other.
Don't use it just before hunting season as it will give off an odor (that deer don't like) for about 3 mo's.
LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO HUNT WITH A UGLY GUN!
(And big Buck deer won't come around if you are hunting a ugly gun, they don't want their pictures taken with a ugly gun)
http://www.lin-speed.com/
50/50 boiled linseed oil and a good spar varnish with a couple drops of japan drier. sand in with 600 wet/dry paper. as many coats as you think you need. can be repaired same way
Wilmamae- Have you ever tried polyurethane "varnish" with the linseed oil and japan drier? I haven't tried Japan Drier with any stock finish before. AND OKIE- I have been using TRU-OIL for 50+ years and I have never had a single deer * about how my rifle smelled. I've never had a compliment from them about how they looked either.[:D]-Mike
No need to add this or that, just use it as is...
Arrow wood finish beats them all..
No need to add this or that, just use it as is...
Never heard of this stuff. It has good reviews and some videos on you tube that shows the good results. Price is reasonable also.
The Birwood Caseys Gunstock tru oil won't make a silk purse out of wood that looks like and sows ear, therefore very good prep of wood before starting is required. Gently damping the wood with alochol will give an idea of the grain and finish. I also try to leave the wood natural and not use a stain unless it's a really light colored wood. Staining a good grained walnut stock usually makes them look worse, unless you want to use stain to hide the grain and make it real black like trying to hide a repaired crack. I've had better results hiding hairline repaired cracks by applying checkering over the crack. I also keep the finish out of the checkering until the final coat.
50% boiled linseed oil, 50% turpentine, rub it in, once a day for a week, once a week for 7 weeks, once a year forever.
If you get a scratch or dent in your stock, lightly sand it, steam out the dent, apply the above finish until it matches.
This is very close to original pre 64 Winchester finish, works very well for toughing up old stocks.
W.D.
+1, I've also found that Tung Oil & turpentine work well.