Refinishing a stock

Forward

I bought an older target .22 Mossberg bolt action probably from the late 30's. Had it reblued and now looking for a professional to refinish the stock.

Can anyone recommend someone?

Thanks.



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Edited by - Forward on 07/09/2002 02:54:40

Edited by - Forward on 07/09/2002 03:00:42

Forward

I have an older shotgun that I am refinishing the wood furnature on and would like to know what kind of oil I should use to treat the wood after I have applied the stain? I used Minwax dark walnut for the color and would like to accent it w/o a polyeurethane coating. I have some Danish Oil finish (natural color) but I am not sure if that is the right product for the job. I would be open to any other suggestions. Thanks.

Mike

"You cannot conquer America." -William Pitt, 1777

Forward

I'm refinishing a Rifle stock. I removed the butt pad but a white spacer would not come off, so I stripped the wood with it in place. The citrus strip dissolved it partially and it needs to be replaced. It seems glued onto the wood.

So my question; Id like to grind it off with a belt sander but the end of the stock is not flat it is curved with a slight concave bow. Is it important to maintain that curve? Can I grind it flat? Is it just for looks or is it functional?

Forward

I have a savage 99e. The finish on the stock is worn and scratched like grandmas old chair.

Whats the best way to refinish? Im thinking or usung 320 grit sandpaper and then wiping on watco danish oil.

is there a better way?

And while im here another question.

I have a lot of 7mm 08 ammo. Does this correspond with any other size? I dont have a 7mm rifle.

E.Williams

You can do just as good job yourself using True oil.I used it for a shotgun stock and foregrip and was very pleased.I used the lighter pecan color and it goes well with the dark receiver.Its alot cheaper aand more rewarding.It is made by birchwood/casey and costs around $4.50 a bottle and one should do it.

Eric S. Williams

muskox2000

E.Williams, I just got an old Turk Mauser and tried cleaning up the stock with some Pledge Orange Oil. It didn't clean the wood that well (but my wife liked the smell better than cosmoline!). My question is does the oil you recommend actually clean the stock as well? Thanks, Musky

cpermd

This will sound odd but you can run old GI stocks through a dishwasher a few times and get the old grease and oil out that way.
I just did 3 FAL sets last week.
I did some M14 stocks at a local restraunt ownd by a friend,due to length.
Make sure they are completely stripped.
cpermd

nmyers

I'm sure cpermd's method will work, but my wife is not that understanding.

I use a manual variation - I scrub the stock in the laundry tub with HOT water, strong detergent, and 00 steel wool. After drying, I finish the stock with tung oil or boiled linseed oil (diluted with mineral spirits) applied with a rag. I use 0000 steel wool between coats.

This method won't work on modern guns with a synthetic finish.

Neal

E.Williams

No to use true oil you haave to sand the old stock down completely removing any imperfections or old finish.Then you just rub the true oil in let it dry lightly buff with 00 or 000 steel wool and repeat until you reach the desired color.There are I beleive five different colors available in true oil.Its like a stain but not as harsh it naturally conditions the wood.If you just want something to clean the stock I have used Scotts liquid gold and it works very good on darker finished stocks.That new pure orange oil works good too.But I have knwn people who used pure carnuba wax and there auto buffer and had no problems but this was on a natural finish.Just about anything non-abrasive can be used to clean a stock.Bt liquid gold and pure oraange oil work well.Just make sure you wipe the stock down thoroughly with liquid gold.

Eric S. Williams

E.Williams

I cant remember the name of the orange oil Im talking of but its the one on tv with the annoying guy from the oxyclean info-mercial.

Eric S. Williams

muskox2000

Eric, Thanks for the info, I will deifnitely try the Liquid Gold, I know what you mean abot the oxyclean dude, but that stuff works pretty well. Musky

rhmc24

IF you will be sandpapering the stock be sure to do it with the butt plate ON the stock. That will keep the stock to butt plate interface sharp. If the butt plate is removed and the stock is sanded, it will round the edge, making is unsightly and a dead giveaway that it has been refinished, regardless how good your job is otherwise. Robert

Forward

Thanks to all for the good advice.

Mballistic

For a really grungy stock Eazy-Off oven Cleaner (cold type) works great. Spray on, wait a couple of hours, wash off with warm water. A piece of steel wool really helps the process. For finishing,any stock oil will work. Sand stock well to remove whiskers. Apply the finish using 400 grit wet-dry paper. Wipe off excess. After the second coat is done this way, use 6oo or even 1200 wet-dry paper and wipe off the excess. Stock is now like the proverbial baby's behind.
TAKE YOUR TIME and good luck.