Rohm Model 66 .22LR

Grunt51

Having issues with this revolver. Once cocked if you move it it will go off, very light trigger. I ordered parts from numrich with same results. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get trigger pull to a safe condition? Cannot find schematic or diagram for firearm. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Guys

Fatstrat

One problem with buying parts from Numrich is that they are usually used parts from a likely non working gun. So you run the risk of getting parts in not much if any better condition than yours.

rufe-snow

I have had good luck buying NOS parts from Bob's Guns Shop in Arkansas.
Here's a link.

http://www.gun-parts.com/rohm/


That said, I wouldn't be putting in any more money than you have. Rohm's were poor quality, inexpensive, pot metal guns to begin with. Once the innards get worn, your just wasting your time and money, trying to fix them, IMHO.



Wait for the next do-gooder buyback. You'll will be $50 bucks ahead. And the libtards will be stuck with the POS Rohm.





EDIT #1,

I believe in this type of revolver there isn't a separate sear. The rear part of the trigger that interfaces with the hammer, functions as a sear. Due to the poor quality of the Rohm. It might be either the hammer, trigger or both that have to be replaced? As Charlie notes, check the rear surface of the trigger and corresponding notch in the hammer. For extreme wear.

charliemeyer007

It's either the sear angle is wrong or the hammer notch is worn, perhaps bubba. Maybe a weak sear spring. I don't think they are high quality pistols that would warrant a trip to a gunsmith but that would be best.

You might try deeping the notch on the hammer. Lay the hammer flat on a flat surface with the sear in the position as it would be in the pistol. The distance between the screw/pin holes in the frame is your guide. The angle on the notch is parallel to the movement of the sear. If too shallow it's a hair or will not even hold full cock, too steep and its horrendous because you a moving the hammer back against the main spring before it can release.

Proper stones and files are the tools of choice. Some parts are surface hardened and once that layer is removed the parts can wear out very quickly.

added: yes it should read sear face on trigger. I was trying to visualize the process I went through learning on a 1911 many years ago. I had a jig that held the hammer/sear in correct alignment as they would be in the pistol.

burpfire

that is why they call these guns " throwaways! " when something goes bad on them, and it will, you throw them away. absolute junk even when new. spend your money on a decent 22 pistol.

TRAP55

The 66 wasn't a pot metal throwaway, it was all steel, fairly well made, and the only handgun they made that was worth a damn. It was "loosely" based on the Colt single action, but used a solid frame. The RG 63 is the same gun, but was in .22LR only, and fixed sights. The 66 had some variations, but mainly was a .22LR/.22Mag convertible, with adjustable rear sight.
The Numrich catalog has a schematic, but their website doesn't.
What charliemeyer said about the sear angle is your likely culprit. Before I messed with that, I would check your hammer and trigger screws for wear. Too much play will effect the trigger/hammer sear engagement. The 66 doesn't have a sear spring per say, that job is done by the trigger spring that sits in front of the trigger. It needs to be in good shape.
When all that checks out, you're back to the sear contact. On single actions, the position of the hammer and/or trigger, effects the timing of the cylinder stop engagement. Cut the sear surfaces too much, and it throws the timing off for the cylinder to lock in time. You only want to lightly square up any rounded edges.
Since you won't have the luxury of a sear jig, like they make for a 1911, sometimes you can use the trigger & hammer screws on the outside of the frame, in their respective holes, to get an idea of the angle you need. Hope this helps, good luck, and update us when you find the fix.

beantownshootah

You can find a blued used replacement hammer AND trigger for this gun on the auction site here for about $20 each. Just search for "Rohm 66" and they'll turn up.

The whole gun is probably only worth about $100. A non-functional one recently sold on the auction site for only $30!

So IMO, you should take a little bit to think about whether or not its worth spending another $45 plus your time and effort to fix this, especially since even if you do, the likelihood of the gun wearing out/breaking again is probably reasonably high.