In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

After you cut and recrown a barrel...

tr foxtr fox Member Posts: 13,856
edited October 2013 in Ask the Experts
I think I understand how easy it is to hacksaw a rifle barrel off and then recrown it. What I am unsure about is does that resolve any rough edges on the lands and grooves at the tip of the barrel?

IOW, I know that cutting and then recrowning the barrel, if done right, will make the entire exterior tip of the barrel as good as new. But does that recrowning of the barrel solve any possible problems (roughness, tip not square with barrel, etc) with the lands and grooves?

Comments

  • 62fuelie62fuelie Member Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Once the barrel is cut absolutely square the crowning uniforms the lands and grooves at the last point they are in contact with the bullet and make certain that the gasses bearing on the base of the bullet exit the muzzle in a uniform pressure ring to prevent tipping the bullet. This crown is often an angle today, but used to be rounded. One of the old methods was to wrap a ball bearing with fine emery cloth and rotate and rock it in the muzzle. Now it is done by chucking the barrel in a lathe and making a precise angled cut to provide the desired uniformity.
  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    tr fox,

    quote:Originally posted by tr fox
    I think I understand how easy it is to hacksaw a rifle barrel off and then recrown it. What I am unsure about is does that resolve any rough edges on the lands and grooves at the tip of the barrel?

    IOW, I know that cutting and then recrowning the barrel, if done right, will make the entire exterior tip of the barrel as good as new. But does that recrowning of the barrel solve any possible problems (roughness, tip not square with barrel, etc) with the lands and grooves?


    Unfortunately, it is not as easy, as you think your understanding is.

    Done right, it is cut in a lathe, then the crown, which perfects the bullets exit of your rifling, is also cut in the very same lathe. This leaves absolutely, no "rough edges on anything", because it is also done by someone who knows, and UNDERSTANDS, what they are doing.

    Yes, the big supply stroes, sell things, that say you can cut a perfect crown with by hand. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder, and the dreams they wish to come true. Those home, DIY hand tools, cannot do it properly, PERIOD. If they could, professional high end rifle builders, would not need a precision lathe or mill....just a hacksaw, pipe threader, and taps, and of course, a crown cutter.

    Best

    EDIT 1

    quote:tsr1965, what you say makes perfect sense. And I don't begrudge a machinist or gunsmith his pay for his knowledge, time and equipment. But for the really small jobs make no sense to pay $65-75 dollars for a professional. Heck, on ebay I can buy a used Ruger 10/22 barrel for that price. In case I mess up the one I have now. So, I will save my important jobs for a professional, but for small, unimportant jobs, I believe I will continue along the DIY route. That appears to have worked with the flash hider I installed after threading the barrel. After all is said and done, if the firearm works like it should after the DIY job, then to me that signifies a successful job.

    You didn't say it was a 10-22...you can take the barrel off that, and take it to a local machine shop, and get it done for little of nothing. The hard part is all done, when you take off the barrel, which on a 10-22 is simple. It would take very little for them to chuck it up, indicate it, and buzz the stuff off the end. One thing to be aware of, is to MAKE SURE that the barrel is AT LEAST 16 inches

    PM me, I have an idea.

    Best
  • llamallama Member Posts: 2,637 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    On a heavy barrel 22, you can sometimes see the "snowflake" - the pattern of residue left behind on the flat face of the barrel/muzzle. The evenness of the pattern lets you know if you have a good crown.

    http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/koch424/DSCN1694_zps064c5650.jpg
  • tr foxtr fox Member Posts: 13,856
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
    tr fox,

    quote:Originally posted by tr fox
    I think I understand how easy it is to hacksaw a rifle barrel off and then recrown it. What I am unsure about is does that resolve any rough edges on the lands and grooves at the tip of the barrel?

    IOW, I know that cutting and then recrowning the barrel, if done right, will make the entire exterior tip of the barrel as good as new. But does that recrowning of the barrel solve any possible problems (roughness, tip not square with barrel, etc) with the lands and grooves?


    Unfortunately, it is not as easy, as you think your understanding is.

    Done right, it is cut in a lathe, then the crown, which perfects the bullets exit of your rifling, is also cut in the very same lathe. This leaves absolutely, no "rough edges on anything", because it is also done by someone who knows, and UNDERSTANDS, what they are doing.

    Yes, the big supply stroes, sell things, that say you can cut a perfect crown with by hand. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder, and the dreams they wish to come true. Those home, DIY hand tools, cannot do it properly, PERIOD. If they could, professional high end rifle builders, would not need a precision lathe or mill....just a hacksaw, pipe threader, and taps, and of course, a crown cutter.

    Best


    tsr1965, what you say makes perfect sense. And I don't begrudge a machinist or gunsmith his pay for his knowledge, time and equipment. But for the really small jobs make no sense to pay $65-75 dollars for a professional. Heck, on ebay I can buy a used Ruger 10/22 barrel for that price. In case I mess up the one I have now. So, I will save my important jobs for a professional, but for small, unimportant jobs, I believe I will continue along the DIY route. That appears to have worked with the flash hider I installed after threading the barrel. After all is said and done, if the firearm works like it should after the DIY job, then to me that signifies a successful job.
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,870 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The simple way to do it is take a round head screw and chuck it in a drill and use some fine compound on it. Using slow speed and a rotating motion it will take the rough edges off [;)]
Sign In or Register to comment.