need to stop surface rust

beantole

I have a blued firearm that sees a good amount of humidity outdoors. I carry it hiking, etc. I saw some surface rust on this blued pistol a few weeks ago and used RB-17 to dissolve it. My question is this........RB-17 and other gun oils state they stop or prevent rust. Does that mean after I use this oil on the frame and outside of the barrel that I only slightly remove the excess oil or that I rub it mostly off
with a dry cloth to prevent surface rust on the blueing? And do I leave some oil in the barrel to stop rust in there? Thanks.

Nighthawk

If I were you I would put some Break free CLP on it and put it on thick let it set about 24HRs. Then wipe it off,you will be surprised what this stuff will do. HOPE this helps!!



Good luck.

Rugster

hunter86004

Believe it or don't, blueing has microscopic holes in it that will let water and oxygen through to the base metal. CLP fills these itty bitty holes and also floats out crud. I like CLP and I also have been known to use a good quality car wax (carnuba) when I knew I would be spending time in a drizzle hoping for a duck.

bullelk

Once you start to develop rust, it's a sign that it has gone through the blueing. It's the metal that is rusting. The best thing you can do now is to keep tabs on it to prevent it from going any further.
I have used a very, very fine grade of steel wool and put plenty of oil on it and rub the surface rust very lightly, being very careful of the original blue. Then after that, keep the gun well protected with a good grade of oil.

I would try what Rugster says first, that way you won't be fooling with the bluing.

"If All Else Fails, Read The Directions"

budreaux39

Once you use the RB-17 gel and have removed all the rust, be sure to use the finishing oil to prevent further rust. You should keep your blued guns oiled when using them regularly to prevent rust. I have yet to use the Break Free but have had excellent results with RB-17 products.
Good Luck,
Scott

M&S Gunstock Shop
www.mandsgunstockshop.com
sdv7771@cox-internet.com
Custom StockmakerSeveral Grades of Walnut Firearm TransfersNRA MemberNAHC Life MemberNRA Certified InstructorAr Concealed HG Instructor

101AIRBORNE

beantole,

Steel will rust, a fact. All replys are correct. To prevent further
rusting/oxidation you must cut off the oxygen supply. Sealing the affected area will prevent further rust. As in old cars, rust refuses to die. I would check the internals but that probably is not a problem. Silicone wipes work for me. Definitely leave a protective in the bore and other internals but remove from bore before firing. I always wipe a firearm down after handling w/ silicone as this helps prevent rusting from the handling. My $00.02 101

beantole

OK, thanks for the input. I'll try what you all suggested. I do like RB-17 but would also like totry that Break free CLP. Do most gun shops sell that or is it something I order over the net? Thanks.

cbxjeff

That's good enough for me guys. I just ordered some CLP.

cbxjeffIt's too late for me, save yourself.

michael minarik

There is another option and I am shocked no one else mentioned it so I will: send it to me I will store in my safe for you..LOL!
Serious side: have used -EXCLUSIVELY- BreakFree for 20 years and I stay away from WD40!!!

modoc

Not wishing any bad luck on you,but if you ever encounter bad rust on a fire arm or any rust for that matter.Douse it heavily with break free and get out the COPPER gun Brush.You can scrub as hard as you want with the COPPER brush and not even faze the bluing.Trust me.The COPPER is softer than steel and blue is a stain that penetrates the steel so is as hard as the steel.Just for your own satisfaction try it on an old gun part that still has some blue.You can not hurt it with a COPPER brush.Watch out for steel mixed in with brass brushes.And forget stainless brushes,they are for toenails or other things but not guns.Good luck with your war on rust.
I think I should clarify what brush I am talking about,not the bore brushes but ones just larger than a toothbrush your gunshop should have on the shelf.The bore brushes have a steel twisted wire inside that will raise holy hell with your gun.Be careful.That's all....

BILL
KEEP YOUR POWDER DRY.BUT NOT HOT.....

Edited by - modoc on 07/14/2002 21:43:22

Edited by - modoc on 07/14/2002 21:46:02

beantole

OK, I went down the street to Bass Pro (eat your hearts out!! ;-) and bought some Break free CLP for $5.00.
I also bought a silicone cloth there for $3.50. I do like my
RB-17 and will continue to use it for the bore but I'm going to put some Break free CLP on the blueing overnight and then wipe it off
and hopw for the best. OBTW, do you ever use Break free CLP to clean the bore??

25-06

I use Hoppes # 9 and OOOO steel wool to remove rust. Put the Hoppes on good and heavy, let soak overnite, rub with the steel wool. Removes the rust , but not the blueing. Wipe off the Hoppes and give a good rub with a piece of sheepskin (wool side) coated with RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease). Used it for over 35 years, best stuff I have found for protecting against finger prints, etc. Used to cut up the old gun cases that were lined with sheep skin, but they are hard to find anymore. Most boot and saddle shops have scrap pieces they will sell cheap. If I store for awhile, I also run a swab with RIG thru the barrel after cleaning.

plautus

beantole-

i use BreakFree CLP for cleaning and cleaning prep and post-cleaning. my understanding is that it is standard issue for GI cleaning kits now.. the "C" in CLP is "Cleaning"..

when i go to the range, i spray Breakfree down the breech and let it flood out the barrel and drain then stuff into each end to keep the extra from spilling out into the case.

when i get home, i usually only have to run the brush down the barrel once and 4-5 patches to get a clean bore.

CLP is a wonder.. I buy the stuff in cases and use nothing else for cleaning and preservation..

for lubrication, i tend to prefer the thicker Tetra lube for autoloaders (CLP is thinner and gets slung around more).

regards



===
"If cowardly and dishonorable men sometimes shoot unarmed men with army pistols or guns, the evil must be prevented by the penitentiary and gallows, and not by a general deprivation of a constitutional privilege." - Arkansas Supreme Court, 1878

bama55

I agree with Rugster and others about getting the rust off. When I get one in that has rust on it I apply Break-Free and let it set overnite, then use a little 0000 steel wool. After that I use Birchwood Casey Sheath gun oil. This is an excellent rust preventative. I have a foam lined hard case that my Rem. 700 stays in. I spray it with Sheath after each hunting season, and the rifle
never rusts.

Don't send flowers when I die. Send money now, I can buy more ammo.

rhmc24

Most of the guns I work on are never fired, antique pieces for collection dating from the 1600s. Steel sweats when heated, you can try it by playing your torch on a piece of steel. It doesn't have to get very hot, maybe the boiling point of water. The sweat then evaporates. I do that and while hot I apply a coat of floor wax. This leaves a clean non oily surface that can be polished with a rag or paper towel. After quite a few years this seems to work out good. On some of my modern guns I do the same but rather than wax, I use an oil product. I realize this is not too practical for hunters due to the presence of wood but thought the info may be of interest to some.