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A debate on a 32 cal. US revolver

revbearrevbear Member Posts: 36 ✭✭
edited March 2004 in Ask the Experts
I am looking at buying this revolver, 32 cal. 5 shot. The dispute is the age and worth. It has seen better days but still in pretty good shape. On the frame and trigger guard are the numbers 1955. My freind and sparing rival, (hee,hee) says it is vintage 20's or 30's. I don't think so. Question on the handles. Would there be a possibility that they are bakalite? They are black in appearance. I think just hard rubber. Any pointer on telling the difference?


"The only fences we need to worry about are those we put in our minds"

Comments

  • rhmc24rhmc24 Member Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    U.S. revolvers are not in great demand, due to 'Saturday Nite Special' reputation and quality. Various models, could date maybe before 1900 to 1930s. General values excellent possibly $100 on a good day down to a lot less depending on condition. One in working, shooting condition with little original finish $40 or so. With a lot more description and a photo someone can come closer to an actual appraisal.
  • XracerXracer Member Posts: 1,990
    edited November -1
    Need a lot more info revbear. Solid frame or breaktop? Blue or nickle plated? Single or double action? Barrel length?

    And......please tell us ALL of the writing on the gun (and proofmarks, if any).

    Many, many, many thousands of .22, .32 S&W, and .38 S&W revolvers were manufactured between the 1880's to 1920's. Most were very inexpensive "Saturday Night Specials" (also known as "Suicide Specials").....and make fine paperweights (and have about that much value).

    Your's may be the execption and be a quality gun....but the odds are against it.
  • rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,650 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If the marking on the revolver is a "U S" inside a circle, it was made by Iver Johnson.

    It was their economy line of revolvers, given that, I wouldn't be cashen in the farm to buy it.

    luger_4.jpg
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    To answer your question. There's no chance the grips are Bakelite. They are hard rubber.
    The gun is in the class known by gun collectors as suicide specials of which there are many variations.
    The 32S&W short is a very low powered cartridge of little interest to shooters, collectors or for self defense.
    If you have to have it, don't spend more than $50 and that is if it's in perfect working order.
  • captkirk3@dslextreme.comcaptkirk3@dslextreme.com Member Posts: 3,804
    edited November -1
    Hear, Hear, Gentlemen...Good Replys All........!

    Captain Kirk, Tech Staff
  • b.goforthb.goforth Member Posts: 982
    edited November -1
    revbear,
    the u.s. revolver co. handguns were manufactured between 1910 and 1935 by iver johnson's arms and cycle works. they were iver johnson's low end product and were sold through mail order and local hardware type retail outlets.

    the u.s. revolvers co. handguns were manufactured in both solid frame and top break style with three frame sizes in solid frame and two sizes in top break.

    in order to properly identify this revolver i would need to know the type (top break or solid frame)and caliber as well as the letter code (or lack of letter code) found with the serial number on the left side of the grip frame, the grips must be removed to see this location.

    regardless of what some have posted here there is collectors interest in the u.s. revolver co. products but interest does not all way equal high value. value is very dependant upon condition both physical and mechanical. the range would be $30 for a parts gun up to $250 plus for like new in the box
    b.goforth
  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    Well..... I have several similar pieces. I paid $100 for the best, $25 for the worst, and all are in working condition; I have shot all of them as well. I use a cartridge full of FFFG blackpowder and a 85gr bullet with no troubles at all. Some very light smokeless loads of about 1.0gr of bullseye are also ok, but I prefer not to try them. If you shoot it make sure the cylinders line up properly and lock, and that the action itself locks up tight. Many top breaks are pretty loose. I don't recommend shooting the top breaks with factory ammo, though I have done it on occasion with some of my best pieces, but the solid frame ones should handle it fine, as loaded by Remington. The .32 SW is a pretty anemic round and not so useful for self defense beyond that being shot with ANYTHING would be a deterrent, but don't expect to drop someone with it.

    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf
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