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Some pitting in chamber
Pdog
Member Posts: 291 ✭✭
I picked up a cheap savage 99. Well shot it today and the chamber is pitted like the outside. Its a 300 savage. Can not hardly remove a round after you fire since it forms to the chamber. Can see the pitting on the brass its just one long spot on the brass. So guess it was on its side with some liquid left in it. So can it just be smoothed out and not hurt anything. Was going to have it reblued but wondering before i call the guy if this is a fixable problem.
Comments
I would suggest that you use a wood dowel with a slot cut into it rather than a metal cleaning rod. Less apt to damage the rifling.
Savage 99 you cannot access the chamber easily from the action end, you would have to run a cleaning rod down the bore and then attach the mop end. I would probably grease or oil the rod.
quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
I would suggest that you use a wood dowel with a slot cut into it rather than a metal cleaning rod. Less apt to damage the rifling.
Savage 99 you cannot access the chamber easily from the action end, you would have to run a cleaning rod down the bore and then attach the mop end. I would probably grease or oil the rod.
That is precisely why he said to use wood, and not the metal cleaning rod...so you do not damage the rifling.
Best
quote:Originally posted by 317wc
quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
I would suggest that you use a wood dowel with a slot cut into it rather than a metal cleaning rod. Less apt to damage the rifling.
Savage 99 you cannot access the chamber easily from the action end, you would have to run a cleaning rod down the bore and then attach the mop end. I would probably grease or oil the rod.
That is precisely why he said to use wood, and not the metal cleaning rod...so you do not damage the rifling.
Best
Have some of you experts looked at a 99 recently? You would not be able to polish the chamber, using a wooden dowel, from the butt end of the rifle, the rear tang is in the way. You probably could get into it by coming in at at angle above and to the rear of the rear tang area, but then your chamber would be polished lopsided.
Follow perryshooters advice and you will be okay, although, personally, for me, I would grease the rod just in case, and I would use a coated rod, not steel or aluminum.
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
quote:Originally posted by 317wc
quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
I would suggest that you use a wood dowel with a slot cut into it rather than a metal cleaning rod. Less apt to damage the rifling.
Savage 99 you cannot access the chamber easily from the action end, you would have to run a cleaning rod down the bore and then attach the mop end. I would probably grease or oil the rod.
That is precisely why he said to use wood, and not the metal cleaning rod...so you do not damage the rifling.
Best
Have some of you experts looked at a 99 recently? You would not be able to polish the chamber, using a wooden dowel, from the butt end of the rifle, the rear tang is in the way. You probably could get into it by coming in at at angle above and to the rear of the rear tang area, but then your chamber would be polished lopsided.
Follow perryshooters advice and you will be okay, although, personally, for me, I would grease the rod just in case, and I would use a coated rod, not steel or aluminum.
Look...You couldn't do it from the breech end with a cleaning rod either. It has to be done from the muzzle end...unless you remove the barrel. Recognizing that fact, is what makes us experts, and it is even better yet that someone recognized that a wooden dowel would not take any chances with the rifleing, that might be incured with a metal rod.
Perry shooter states to insert the rod, "from the bore"...the bore does not start with the chamber! OPEN YOUR eyes and read, before you give lip service. Perhaps you didn't realize that they make wooden dowels in several diameter's, several types of wood, both hard and soft, and several feet in length, that can reach down the bore, to the chamber?
Best
EDIT 1
I agree with Karl(perry shooter), 100%, and I agree with Ambrose also on this matter...wood will be better than metal.
If you get a good hardwood dowel, you can thread it just like it is metal, and do anything you can with a cleaning rod. Also, Ambrose was trying to say, with a slot or eye cut in the dowel, to put an inverted patch on, like the Otis cleaning systems, then you can pull it in from the cleaning end, after you load the patch.
Unfortunately, for Pdog, depending on how deep the pitting is, this might not cure his woes. To truly fix those type of woes, the barrel needs to be replaced.
Best
quote:Originally posted by 317wc
quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
quote:Originally posted by 317wc
quote:Originally posted by Ambrose
I would suggest that you use a wood dowel with a slot cut into it rather than a metal cleaning rod. Less apt to damage the rifling.
Savage 99 you cannot access the chamber easily from the action end, you would have to run a cleaning rod down the bore and then attach the mop end. I would probably grease or oil the rod.
That is precisely why he said to use wood, and not the metal cleaning rod...so you do not damage the rifling.
Best
Have some of you experts looked at a 99 recently? You would not be able to polish the chamber, using a wooden dowel, from the butt end of the rifle, the rear tang is in the way. You probably could get into it by coming in at at angle above and to the rear of the rear tang area, but then your chamber would be polished lopsided.
Follow perryshooters advice and you will be okay, although, personally, for me, I would grease the rod just in case, and I would use a coated rod, not steel or aluminum.
Look...You couldn't do it from the breech end with a cleaning rod either. It has to be done from the muzzle end...unless you remove the barrel. Recognizing that fact, is what makes us experts, and it is even better yet that someone recognized that a wooden dowel would not take any chances with the rifleing, that might be incured with a metal rod.
Perry shooter states to insert the rod, "from the bore"...the bore does not start with the chamber! OPEN YOUR eyes and read, before you give lip service. Perhaps you didn't realize that they make wooden dowels in several diameter's, several types of wood, both hard and soft, and several feet in length, that can reach down the bore, to the chamber?
Best
What Perry SHooter is saying, and I am agreeing with, it to run your rod down the barrel, from the muzzle end, then, after you reach the chamber, attach the mop with whatever polishing compound you are using. You cannot use a rod from the action end, or a wooden dowel. You of course can run a dowel, in whatever material you see fit, down the barrel as well. You CANNOT easily attach a mop w/ polishing compound, unless you modify your dowel with a jag type attachment. This is why a cleaning rod was recommended. Personally, I still would grease or oil the rod, I would still use a quality coated rod, not a plain aluminum or steel, and I also would still grease the rod and take my time polishing the chamber. I wouldn't do it from the chamber end, I wouldn't pull the barrel, and I wouldn't use a dowel in any length or hardwood/softwood, as there is not an easy way to accomplish what I need with those materials.
If you have any other constructive criticism I would welcome it.
Pdog if it is very bad, and you are going to have it re-blued, you might ask your gunsmith about pulling the barrel and setting it back a turn, then re-cutting the chamber, he may or may not be capable if this, it would give you a new chamber, if yours is too trashed to save. You may also have to have your forearm shortened. I may be forgetting something, I'm sure it will be pointed out to me.
Edit:
That might work, cutting threads into a dowel. I would not worry about using a good rod. I could foresee the threads breaking of while you are in the middle of the job(with a wooden dowel). It only is costing you your time and effort.
As for replacing the barrel versus setting it back, I still would say setback. I just pulled the forearm off my 99 and unless I am missing something, it can be setback and the chamber re-cut. The forearm would have to be shortened, as the hanger stud is dove-tailed into the underside of the barrel. There is plenty of room behind the rear sight, another problem might be preserving the proof stamp (SP in oval). Since there is only 1/4" or so to work with.
I would recommend setting the barrel back over replacement because; if you are replacing it, you will almost definitely need to index the barrel, as well as finish chambering, in order to establish proper head-space, and in the case of the indexing, proper barrel position IE top dead center. If you have to do this anyways it will be cheaper and faster to do this to your own barrel. I would also have my guy recut the crown, since the barrel is pulled. I would finish it off with a good polish job and rust-blue.
The 99 is a great gun of yesteryear and you should take steps to preserve it. The .300 is a great low-recoil round and you can step it up to near .308 Win velocities. It works well for elk on down. It is one of those guns that they just don't make anymore, literally and figuratively.
Take gun apart. It needs cleaned and lubed plus inspected anyway.
You might try punching out the primer in one of your fire formed cases, drill and tap the hole to fit your rod of choice. Make a slip on false muzzle to protect the crown. Coat the case with JB, drop it in chamber, attach false muzzle, slide .25" brass rod down bore (my choice) attach to mandrel, spin while pulling on the rod. Reverse motor direction to un-screw case. Flush chamber area with solvent/WD-40 long p-tube. Repeat the process a few times. Then reassemble ant test fire.
Yeah, I know, the first time I heard about it I cringed and called BS too, but it works! I've done it on two rifles, and at least 500 rounds later, it's still working.
One was pitted, and the other had a gouge from someone digging out a broken case. The chamber has to be spotless, de-greased, and the pits clean. The JB Weld is dabbed on the pits with a toothpick, it doesn't take much. Too much and you'll push it up into the throat and bore area, and it's a real PITA to get cleaned out.
Then an empty case with a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax is chambered. Let it set in a warm place for 48 hrs to set up good, before extracting the case.
Clean the empty case and wipe some JB Bore Paste on it, insert into the chamber, and spin with a drill. So far, none of the cases show any marks, and they extract like they are suppose to. This was done on a Mosin and a Mauser where the chamber was easily accessed from the breech, the Savage 99 might be a problem without removing the barrel.
Neither rifle had any great value, and the alternative was an expensive re-chamber, or re-barrel.