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RE Loading The .357 Sig

NighthawkNighthawk Member Posts: 12,022 ✭✭✭
edited July 2002 in Ask the Experts
I like to reload as much of my ammo as possible,including my .357 sig ammo.Im having trouble with the case necks splitting.I am very delicate with them.Ive tried every thing I can think of.Any one have a suggestion?or is anyone having the same problem?


Thanks in advance.

Rugster
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Comments

  • leeblackmanleeblackman Member Posts: 5,303 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    What brand of brass are you reloading? Are you using .40sw brass?

    If I'm wrong please correct me, I won't be offended.

    The sound of a 12 gauge pump clears a house fatser than Rosie O eats a Big Mac !
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  • ATFATF Member Posts: 11,683 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Rugster,if you are using .40 S&W brass.don't, use only .357 Sig brass.
    Also don't forget to lube your cases.
    ATF

    Edited by - ATF on 07/28/2002 19:19:43

    Edited by - ATF on 07/28/2002 19:22:29
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  • NighthawkNighthawk Member Posts: 12,022 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Most of the brass is Corbon,which at one time Winchester made the caseing and I had no trouble with it.TRiton and Corbon is mainly the caseings that are splitting.I can load Hornady caseings usually with no problem.But most of my caseings are mostly Corbon or TRiton.

    Rugster
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  • leeblackmanleeblackman Member Posts: 5,303 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have trouble with cor-bon brass myself, I think its just the brass. You might try trimming the neck a little, but I think you should just chunk it myself.

    If I'm wrong please correct me, I won't be offended.

    The sound of a 12 gauge pump clears a house fatser than Rosie O eats a Big Mac !
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  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Rugster, just finished loading about 4500 of these little suckers. I've had a few splits with my brass after multiple loadings, but not with 'new' (first few loadings). I'd concur that it is most likely the brass manufacturer. Have had good luck w/ Winchester, Federal & Remington brass. Didn't have a Cor-bon in the lot, so I can't comment on it. I did have a lot of Speer brass and I won't take any more in the future, even if it is given to me as this was. Out of about 2500 1xF brass, over 500 had very loose primer pockets, several hundred had to have the primers 'hammered' out before they could be re-primed . . . and, oddly, once the sticking primers were removed, many of those cases had loose pockets. Maybe Speer uses some sort of sealant? I dunno, but I do know it took as long to load this stuff on the Dillon as it used to take me on the single stage Rockchucker. If I hadn't invested in the bullets & powder before I started, I would have sent them all to the scrap dealer.
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  • ATFATF Member Posts: 11,683 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Rugster,I have not seen it mentioned.Are you lubeing the cases before you load ?

    ATF

    Edited by - ATF on 07/29/2002 10:26:35
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  • NighthawkNighthawk Member Posts: 12,022 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ATF,Thats what I thought It might be at first I wasnt,but I have been and it did help.But my failure rate is still at least 1 for 20.Im not getting it I didnt have but about fifty rounds of Hornady caseings to load,and they worked fine.But Ive got what seems like alot to me,of money invested in reloading this caliber.Im wondering if I bought a new DIE if that would solve my problem.A buddy of mine said it was the caseings.He says their to thin at the neck.But if that was the case It would split all cases I would think.Im using once shot caseings by the way.Our Dept issues the P229 .357 sig.So I pick up or someone else saves it for me,and I have plenty of caseings.Whats your opinion on buying a new Die?

    Rugster
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  • ATFATF Member Posts: 11,683 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Rugster,I would call the mfg.of the die you have and see what they say.They may surprize you and send you a new one.

    ATF
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  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Rugster, before you invest in new tools, take 50 of the Cor-bon and try annealing the necks before you size them. If the problem is the brittleness of the brass, you should see a dramatic difference in the loss rate.
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  • mballaimballai Member Posts: 1,280 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'm not at all surprised by this problem. Seems every handloader has blacklisted one brand of brass from their bench at least, but the design of the .357 SIG round seems to be the most demanding of auto brass. Chances are very good some brands will get the heave ho. I don't think it is your dies, but you do have to be extra careful, and you will probably get much fewer reloads per case.

    Personally I would NOT reload this round unless I kept very careful track of each and every casing. You might consider using something like Starline starting with new brass and carefully inspecting your brass as you go.

    Three Precious Metals: Gold, silver and lead
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