M1 Garand question

Chevyman Tx

I know that there are narrow base and wide base gas
cylinders for M1 Garands.. I have been told that a
M1 Garand (manufactured around 1944) should have a wide base
cylinder... My question is, will a narrow base fit the
rifle? there seems to be more narrow base cylinders up for
auction then wide base...

thanks

rick

Chevyman Tx

A local person wants me to list his M1 Garand here on Gunbroker. He says that it was a rifle specifically made for match shooting at Camp Perry and not a rifle meant to be issued to troops. He says that the receiver has some stars on one side that show that this rifle was built for matches. I will get some photos and more information in the next few days, just wondering if anyone heard of these purpose built rifles with stars on the receiver?

Chevyman Tx

Hi, my first post her.
Some time ago I was at a Big5 sporting goods and I saw a M1 Garand for sale in their used gun section. The price was $61.00.
I didn't buy it, because at the time I was waiting for a transplant and I didn't think I would survive the year, let alone ever getting to use the gun!

Now I received my transplant and I came on these boards to see if I could find one. Imagine my surprise, when I saw the prices the garands are fetching here!

I was a Lieutenant in the Italian army, attached to an American base in northern Italy, and at the time (early 80's) I had a Winchester made M1. I loved that gun, I found it precise and reliable and now I think of it fondly. I remember envying the American soldiers, with their M16 and their repeating fire, but my Garand was a pretty gun, and eventually I got assigned a beretta version with a folding stock and a larger magazine our paratroopers were using at the time. I got discharged with honor as a Captain, but in Italy owning a M1 is against the law (it is considered a war gun). After I moved to the states, started a family etc. I didn't think about it anymore.

Was my find an unusual one? Or some M1s are better than others (I suppose so, but $60 seemed like a deal to me)?

Also, my father owned a Benelli over-under and 2 beretta shotguns, special edition with carvings fine wood stock, etc. what are the procedures to import such a gun? Should I make another post to ask that question?

Thank you for your help, any answers will be greatly appreciated.

Chevyman Tx

I know nothing about this particular gun. I have a friend that is old vietnam vet and he is really lookin for one. I need some info to help me choose the best one to buy. Thanks

Chevyman Tx

According to the Scott Duff M1 Garand book, all of the numbers on my Springfield M1 are correct except the barrel. The serial No. 1877XXX and the book states that the barrel should be 3-S-A-7-43. My barrel is stamped 3-S-A-4-44. I'm wondering if it was normal to ship them that way with some parts off by a few months. After all I should take into account that it was made during the war. Should I look for another barrel with the correct stamping? Then maybe I should just leave it alone. I'm new to the M1 and this is the only one that I have so please excuse my ignorance on this subject. Thank you for your thoughts because you are the experts.

Chevyman Tx

i just bought an m1 garand last week. im new to the garand scene, so im hearing about matching numbers ect. where can i find the numbers on a garand and what is the significance of matching numbers. i did check the serial number and it was built by springfield in june 1942

Chevyman Tx

I am a Novice Garand owner w/ one IHC and one H & R.

My tractor rifle is 5,097,7xx produced 1954-1956 and the barrel has a "funky" F on its side and a punch mark, D6535448, a space then 45, another space then A1800 a space and a widely seperated S A ( the A is kinda ground off) and then 11 52.

Does this barrel match the receiver? I understand that Springfield "bailed" out IHC when they had production problrms

What is the best reference book/guide to strart my Garand education?

Chevyman Tx

after selling off several M1 garands i inherited i kept two that i thought were the best a M1C and M1D both are pristine and have all the matching mfg parts, only difference i can see is the scope mounts and one has a M81 scope and the other a M82 my question is
the D model fires fine no problems but the C model will fire off two maybe three rounds then eject the clip with the remaining 5 or 6 rounds does not do it all the time but at least 50% of the time.i fire the same ammo in both rifles (surplus ball)and have even swapped clips from the D model but does not seem to make any difference..
another question is if i should need to get work done on these scopes any suggestions as to who would do it

Chevyman Tx

Hello:

My Grandfather is looking at a very nice Garand. The guy that has it is a friend of mine. He thinks it is worth some unbelievable amount of money. I just don't know. I just ordered a book on these things, but I really do not know a whole lot about them other than to watch your thumb. I don't want Granddad to get crucified on this thing, but I also don't want to anger a friend over an offer.

This is what I have so far:
Springfield Armory
SN: 2485755
Receiver: D 28291 32, D 2 3, #9674;, and a double stamped 4
Barrel: S-A-12-50, EXEL/GARDNER, MA (near front sight)
Bolt: D28287-19SA, D-14A
Operating Rod: D35382 6 SA
Trigger Housing: D28290-14-SA
Hammer: C46008-7 SA
STOCK: The stock is in very nice shape (surely refinished). I can only find a faint P inside a circle, and an X at the base of the "pistol grip" on the stock. There have been some repairs to the stock with pins, but no cracks are visible, and it looks very nice.

I don't know where to even look for other numbers. I have found a few places online, but I got a little too confused. It looks VERY nice, but I don't know on these things. My "friend" is saying it is worth $2000, and I just don't think so. I say $900 tops, just from what I have seen on GB.

What do you guys think???
Thanks,
Jamie

Chevyman Tx

You know how the clip will eject after all rounds fired. Well mine will eject every once in awhile after 2 round have been fired. Not only is it irritating but it hurt. See they hit right on top of my head, Hat and ear muffs took most of the hit.

So while cleaning it up today what should I look for. This will be my 1st time Field Stripping it. Yesterday was the 1st time I shot it. Shot great at least as good as I shoot.

Thanks for the help.

added:Do have a field striping Guide.


added:But have just did a search how do I get that book since its not available in my area. Will try to get it ordered today and see how long it will take to get in.

Ammo is old Military still in their Bandoleers and on clips. Head stamp is "HXP 80"

May have the Manual coming in, local gun shop checked and his supplier says they have it. This was Kind of weird since that shop normally does not give me the time of day. Run by a retired COP and normally only talks to other COPS. But the Mention of a Garand got them talking to me. Will also look at the Fulton Armory, heard of them before, just forgot them. Will save their site on my Favorites list for future reference.

Chevyman Tx

I have a Springfield Garand, serial 219774, which I believe puts the mfg. date somewhere in the April-May 1941 range. Anyway, the rifle is in decent shape-I'm sure, given the 1941 date, that its been thru some sort of rebuild over the years however I believe the barrel may still be the original. (I'm at work and don't have all the barrel markings.) The rifle needs to be rebarreled, muzzle erosion is significant and the accuracy greatly affected.
My question is regarding general value should my heirs decide to sell the rifle some time in the future: Rebarreling so it's a shooter vs just keeping it as it is to maintain it as close to original as possible? Any suggestions from the experts? (The more I try to learn about these rifles I realize how much more studying I need to do.)

Chevyman Tx

just recieved a m1 garand and would like to know a little about this rifle..i will say the gun is in real nice shape but i am no garand expert...frame says u.s.rifle cal 30 m1 springfield armory serial # 3140000...bolt has 6526287-sa z3... barrel has a e and r on it and also 1-s-a-11-44..how much are these worth and anything else you can tell me...no import marks..i'm thinking springfield armory put these together in the 80's or 90's..possible parts gun??? thanks for you time tom

Chevyman Tx

I just picked up an M1 Garand in great condition, the receiver is marked on the left side C A T Gorgia, VT. The stock is after market, as it has no inspector stamps or other markings on it.
Can anyone give me an idea what this is? Who C A T is? Is value comarible to armoury rebuild?
Thanks for the help.
W.D.

bobski

its such a broad spectrum and cost, that it would be best to ask him 'whats his budget'....and go from there.[;)]

nmyers

I would advise he buy a service grade rifle from the Civilian Marksmanship Program (a US government program).

Neal

firstharmonic

quote:Originally posted by nmyers
I would advise he buy a service grade rifle from the Civilian Marksmanship Program (a US government program).

Neal


What Neal said. Follow this link to check them out - http://www.odcmp.com/ . Look under "Sales" then "Rifle Sales" then "M1 Garand Rifle".

Maxx424

http://www.garandguy.com/

You might want to take a look here. A bit more expensive than CMP but a much nicer gun. We have two from Tony and one from CMP. If he has the money well worth it.

reindeer

The garand is a special rifle. I have never seen more of them available in civilian sources--gun stores, etc. The CMP auction guns can get very expensive. I have recently recommended to interested friends that they go to a gun store I know that has a healthy stock of garands. You can get a beautiful shooter for 800-900 dollars. It may sound like a lot to some people but a garand with a good throat and chamber is worth every penny. reindeer

Rambosdaddy

I'd have to say that CMP is the way to go for a first M1 Garand.
Over the past several years I have gotten several excellent shooters a couple of which have barrels which gauged as almost new for $500-$600. Most require a little cleaning up but if they are Rack, Field or Service Grade they will do for a first M1.

Xracer

A lot will depend on what your friend wants the gun for.....

Does he want a "shooter"? Mix & match parts, but good for shooting?

.....Or does he want a "collector"? All correct matching and correctly numbered parts?

Decent shooters can be found from about $700 & up.

All correct "collector grade" guns tend to be very expen$ive

linthicum

If you buy a service or rack grade from CMP and want it to be the best shooter it can be (and have some extra $). Send it to Fulton Armory. They can do a simple tune-up or a complete overhaul. I have seen some of there work on M1 at the range (from different people). And everyone that I have seen would put 8 rounds in the size of a quarter at 200yrds. Of course these guys are experienced shooters. But it shows in the rite hands what there rifles can do.

beachmaster73

Be wary of gunshop Garands priced between $700-$900 apiece. Most of them are CMP rack and field grades that you could just as easily purchase from the CMP for around $475. Even the CMP service grades are only priced at $575. In addition the CMP is going to do a new run of Select grades(basically a service grade with a brand new commercial barrel and a nice new CMP cartouched stock) for right around $975, probably at the beginning of next year. There are any number of qualified Garand gunsmiths around the country from whom you can choose to upgrade the accuracy of your rifle. In most cases though the rifle is already more accurate than you are. An excellent shooter can easily clean the standard 200 yard target with a 2 MOA rifle. All those shots in the 8 and 7 rings are usually the fault of the trigger puller not the rifle. As a certified CMP Master Instructor who conducts Garand clinics I would most strongly advise you to invest in a CMP Service Grade M1 rifle and use the $300 dollars you saved by not buying some rack grade gunshop rip off to instead use that money to purchase ammo with which to practice and improve your scores.
To successfully compete in the new John C. Garand M1 Matches around the country you really don't need a quasi-NM rifle that some armorer charges you $600 to tune. One of my non modified M1 with its original WWII barrel has shot a 288-6X in a JCG competition. In JCG competition it all comes down to the offhand position. If you practice that enough you can run circles around the guys that try to buy their way to a medal. Beach


P.S. That original rifle that shot the 288 has about a 8-9 lb trigger. Imagine what it might have shot with a 4.5 lb trigger...who cares in the long run. It's practice that will bring your scores up.

flyingtorpedo

I agree to check out the CMP.

Frogbert

Plus 1! The CMP is the way to go. He will especially enjoy it since he is a veteran. Have him click on the link to the forum, right away. They have a section just for M1 Garands.

JackiePapers

+1 on the CMP route... I got a real beauty for $ 475 not too long ago. Was pleasantly surprised to say the least. Well worth the paperwork hoops! [:D]

Good luck!