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black powder shooting and cleaning

5mmgunguy5mmgunguy Member Posts: 3,092 ✭✭
edited November 2007 in Ask the Experts
I have been told that if I get my blackpowder rifle in stainless steel that I don't have to worry about cleaning as much as with plain steel because it won't rust...true or false. I think false but my friend usually is more knowledgeable than me...who is right?

Comments

  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd give you the bonus point on this one. Stainless will rust, just not as quickly or as severely. You should still clean after every outing, but if you shoot in the morning and carry the gun around in the woods for the rest of the day you don't have to wonder if you can feel the rust forming. In short, it buys you some time, but if you love your metal you'll clean it just as much.
  • PA ShootistPA Shootist Member Posts: 691 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The term "stainless steel" is a bit of misnomer. Steel industry experts usually use the more correct term "rust resisting" steel. Some stainless alloys are more rust resisting than others, depending on the chemistry of the alloy. The residue from burned black powder contains salt compounds, and is hygroscopic, that is, it is thirsty for moisture, and can find and absorb moisture from the atmosphere in all but the very dryest climates. Add water to salt, expose the combination to steel, even the "stainless" variety, and you can and will get corrosion, in a relatively short time, though much better than ordinary carbon steels. Another problem is the build-up of the burned black powder residue. It gets heavier and thicker with each shot, and will need to be removed after a limited number of shots, for ease of loading, and or accuracy, and to keep pressures down. So, you will find cleaning is a must.
  • rediceredice Member Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I had one and found that it actually rusted faster, maybe it was badly done but after that experience I wouldn't buy another.

    Btw if you use some of the more modern BP substitutes rust isn't much of problem.
  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am assuming since you are talking about stainless steel, you MIGHT be talking about a modern in-line, ignited by a 209 shotgun primer? Based on that assumption, the question is why would one want to use the regular BLACK powder? It contains sulfer, and salt peter, and any 416 stainless(what stainless guns are usually made out of) is no match for it's by products, of which are sulferic , and hydro chloric acids, which are hygroscopic.

    Personally a black powder substitute, called Triple 7 is the way to go, and it can be had in granular, or pre measured, compressed charges called pellets. Still not saying you don't need to take care of your equipment, but if you do forget, your rifle will not be the f-ugly thing it would be with real black powder.
  • allen griggsallen griggs Member Posts: 35,585 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Buy a Savage. It shoots modern smokeless powder, you can shoot it all day and not clean at all.
  • bpostbpost Member Posts: 32,669 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are some new BP substitutes like American Powder that fouls very little and cleans even easier. SS gun barrels are fantastic but not cleaning any BP gun after firing is a bad idea.

    Some SS barrels look like rust is forming when it is actually a discoloration from the combustion process. Mine shows a nasty brown looking color inside the barrel after shooting but it is not rust.
  • carbine100carbine100 Member Posts: 3,071 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Good post to plug my BP cleaning solution.
    Mix 1 part rubbing alcohol
    1 part Murphy's original soap
    1 part hydrogen peroxide
    Cleans like a champ.
  • dtknowlesdtknowles Member Posts: 810 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Got to believe that you mean "one part" 3% hydrogen peroxide solution(drug store H2O2) some people have access to concentrated hydrogen peroxide but hopefully they know the danger of mixing it with alcohol. While it is less important I expect that you mean 70/30 rubbing alcohol. While this might be great what is the problem with hot soapy water. If you use your solution do you dry afterward or can you skip that. Do you oil afterward. Do you use enough to fill the bore, jsut use on patches or do you fill a tub and use it like soapy hot water.

    Tim
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by allen griggs
    Buy a Savage. It shoots modern smokeless powder, you can shoot it all day and not clean at all.


    EXACTLY what he said[8D]
  • carbine100carbine100 Member Posts: 3,071 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You are correct on the 3% hyd perox and rubbing alcohol dtknowles. I have a muzzleloader that uses a percussion cap. I pour about 4 oz onto the barrel with my thunb over the nipple. Put my other thumb over the muzzle and slosh it back and forth a half dozen times or so. Dump it out the muzzle. Run a clean patch through the barrel. Pour 2 oz in barrel and allow to run out nipple. Two more pacthes down barrel to dry, wipe outside down and put her up. Pop a cap prior to loading when I take her out again.
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