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700 Remington bolt replacement
byby88
Member Posts: 6 ✭✭
I have an early 700 remington 222 that the previous owner welded a case to the bolt with a bad handload. He sent it back to remington and then did not have the bolt replaced in fact he told them it was a factory load and wanted them to replace the bolt for free. My question is what is the best way to replace the bolt body. I have very little invested in it at this point, and do want to spend a lot on it not knowing how well it will shoot.
Comments
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"...and do ^ want to spend a lot on it not knowing how well it will shoot."
It's probably safe to assume that this is what you meant to type.
Without having the advantage of seeing this bolt in person, it has been possible to machine brass off of the boltface. Check with a gunsmith.
The cost of replacing the bolt is relative to your sensitivity to repair costs. It's not like there is a significant range of prices available to choose from. Generally, bolts can be occasionally found on the various firearms websites for sale at prices ranging from $100.00 (no firing pin) to $225.00 complete but far more than what they should be selling for. The Gunbroker Auctions have a parts category for such things also.
Newly designed and manufactured bolts are available through Pacific Tool and Gauge (Dave Kiff's company). These come as components with the bolt body separate from the bolt handle and the firing pin, spring, shroud and cocking piece as additions to these. You choose the body design and bolt handle design then buy the rest as an assembly.
http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/products/parts/remington.htm
No matter which solution you choose, your gunsmith will have to check and more than likely adjust the headspace.
Best.
Take the bolt to a machine shop and explain what you want done:
....remove the welded-on case from the bolt body without damaging the bolt body or bolt face.
Decide in advance how much you want to spend doing this and stick with that number. Be prepared for the bolt being damaged beyond your being able to use it and don't try to hold the machine shop responsible for it if that happens.
One other thing you might try is to go to an electronic parts store and buy a spray can of "instant freeze". This stuff will cause frostbite to your skin if you spray yourself and is used to chill electronic circuit boards, etc. during repair. Wear goggles (preferably a face shield), gloves, hat and long sleeved shirt when you use this stuff.
Anyway, put the bolt in a vise, looking up. Get a little propane bottle torch and heat that case up about as hot as you can get it, put a pair of adjustable pliers around that red-hot case and spray the heck out of the base of the case with the freeze spray while GENTLY wiggling the case with the pliers. You may be able to get it to snap off the bolt face. Remember that the extracter claw(s) have hold of the case and you need to try to break it free of the extractor claw(s), too, so try to move it in the appropriate direction to break it off the bolt face and free of the extractor claw(s). This is worth a try, anyway. Don't get the bolt red hot, just the case.....keep the torch flame on the case.
I have not run into a problem like this before, so obviously don't know if the machinist can do the job or if this freeze technique will work. Personally, I would go talk to the machine shop first, paying special attention to everything they say....exactly. You are looking for whether or not they even have a clue as to how to go about this job. If you don't think they do, I'd try the freeze spray method before letting them take a shot at it.
I want to add a couple of comments regarding your dilemma before this goes too far. Some of the discussion is completely off base and unacceptable.
First, the Remington bolt is made up from 3-pieces of steel:
Bolt body, bolt handle and bolt nose (which is the front of the bolt containing the lugs). These three parts are soldered together to make the bolt assembly.
Applying mild heat to the bolt nose area might be acceptable but melting brass off the bolt face is definitely NOT. There is also the consideration of the bolt lug hardness and changing this by applying too much heat.
The discussion of applying heat then freezing is to create expansion and contraction in order to force the welded case to 'pop' off the bolt face. The brass may be extruded into the ejector hole also, creating a sort of 'lock'. The extractor will still probably have surface contact which might need some attention to wiggle the case free. Unfortunately, the extractor might be sacrificed with this procedure but you might save the bolt nose.
Machine shops are great places to get some forms of work accomplished but gunsmithing is usually not their forte. I still suggest using a good gunsmith with experience on Remington M700 rifles to get this work finished properly. He will know about the lugs, extractor and ejector without being told or having to guess. He will also be able to start with the proper machine set up right away to eliminate guessing.
Replacing the bolt with either factory or custom will still require a gunsmith to adjust the headspace.
Best.
Or is the boltface truing done in some other way?
"truing" the bolt face slowly cut away the brass??"
Slow or fast depending on the skill and set up.
If prying and loosening doesn't accomplish anything, there are several methods used to get rid of the excess brass first and then carefully getting the last bit removed without too much damage. Usually the bolt face needs to be corrected or trued after welding a piece of brass to it. There are a couple of different techniques that can be used for the bolt face depending on the training and machines available.
But if you're going to do the bolt face you may as well go through the process and do the entire action. Losing the extractor happens most of the time but sometimes you get lucky. Removing the last bit of brass can surprise you with the ejector suddenly gaining its little bit of freedom although it can also be controlled by some of the extruded brass. Make sure that the ejector is loose but controlled before removing the retaining pin.
Best.