In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
S&W M38 Hidden Hammer
webley
Member Posts: 154 ✭✭✭
Can anyone tell me the approximat date of mfg of an Airweight S&W serial number 9x7J10 and what were the finish options? This finish looks more like a beautiful paint job than being bluied.
Comments
I have seen several older revolvers (Colt & S&W) at gun shows lately that had what looked like beautiful paint jobs ---- because that's what they WERE! At least, I was familiar with these particular models & knew they never left the factory with a matte black finish.
You might want to give the model number of your gun, as several models with aluminum frames were called "airweight". I am unaware of any factory finish other than blue or nickel.
Neal
You may want to post a photo.
I have seen several older revolvers (Colt & S&W) at gun shows lately that had what looked like beautiful paint jobs ---- because that's what they WERE! At least, I was familiar with these particular models & knew they never left the factory with a matte black finish.
You might want to give the model number of your gun, as several models with aluminum frames were called "airweight". I am unaware of any factory finish other than blue or nickel.
Neal
I bought a brand new Model 38 airweight in the 1980's or early 1990's and it has a flat black finish! Most of them had that finish in the lightweight frame. Its blueing but with a very satin type finish. Smooth and not rough.
Webley, if you open the cylinder on your gun you should find the model number stamped on the part of the frame that is covered by the cylinder crane when it is closed.
I would only fire +P ammo in my airweight if it were a life-or-death situation. It was not designed to handle that much pressure. No, it wouldn't blow up, but a relatively small number of rounds would stretch the frame to the point that it would become unusable.
Neal
I'm glad Sig brought me up to date --- by the late '80's, most of the real gun shops in my state were gone.
Webley, if you open the cylinder on your gun you should find the model number stamped on the part of the frame that is covered by the cylinder crane when it is closed.
I would only fire +P ammo in my airweight if it were a life-or-death situation. It was not designed to handle that much pressure. No, it wouldn't blow up, but a relatively small number of rounds would stretch the frame to the point that it would become unusable.
Neal
As a matter of record, the newer model Smith Airweights are rated for .38+P (says so on the frame).
While frame stretching was a problem with the first generation of the alloy frame revolvers, the newer guns have been "torture tested" with thousands of rounds of +P ammo and do hold up.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Guns-Firearms-Projectile-1501/High-pressure-ammo.htm
http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/review/Model_60-15.htm
Point is, if the gun is rated for +P, then go ahead and use +P ammo if you want to.
I know this isn't the same Smith & Wesson you are talking about, but the model number and serial number should be in the same place on modern (post 1957) Smiths.
With the model number and serial number, giving you a date of manufacture should be an easy trick.
Could this be a repair. The pistol does look well cared for.
1971/1972 were the only years they used the 999J99 format serial number, so my guess is you have a pinned barrel model 38 made in 1971 or 1972. This picture shows where the pin is located on a pinned barrel. If you have dial-up, I apologize for all the pictures, but sometimes it's easier for me to describe things if I use a picture.
This is what the Standard Catalog ofr Smith & Wesson, Second Edition says about the Smith & Wesson Model 38: