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Late-bloomer, 30-06 to 6.5x55
sandwarrior
Member Posts: 5,453 ✭✭✭
Late-Bloomer,
Just wanted to let you know this is why I appreciate this site so much. When converting a rifle you have at least a dozen guys who've done it. And like nononsense and myself pointed out the feed factor is an issue. ATF noted he had no problem with feeding in a similar conversion?(cal?) You got the brass size from JustC. I think it's a great idea still and hope you go for it I just wanted you to check it with a dummy round before seeing how much you would be dealing with. If you were going to load real rounds halfway just to see how they will feed it shouldn't be a problem. You may get some funny looks until someone understands what you are about to undertake. the only reason I suggested the .260 Rem is that through the body the .260( while 1/2" shorter)has the same body taper as the 30-06. Until the shoulder comes into play there shouldn't be any problems. When the shoulder hits the front of the magazine see if the nose of the bullet hits the backside of the chamber.
Just wanted to let you know this is why I appreciate this site so much. When converting a rifle you have at least a dozen guys who've done it. And like nononsense and myself pointed out the feed factor is an issue. ATF noted he had no problem with feeding in a similar conversion?(cal?) You got the brass size from JustC. I think it's a great idea still and hope you go for it I just wanted you to check it with a dummy round before seeing how much you would be dealing with. If you were going to load real rounds halfway just to see how they will feed it shouldn't be a problem. You may get some funny looks until someone understands what you are about to undertake. the only reason I suggested the .260 Rem is that through the body the .260( while 1/2" shorter)has the same body taper as the 30-06. Until the shoulder comes into play there shouldn't be any problems. When the shoulder hits the front of the magazine see if the nose of the bullet hits the backside of the chamber.
Comments
I'll use a dummy round instead to keep things SAFE, don't want no problems! I'll just have to wait 'til next week to get three made up, just to make sure the three in the mag will feed properly. If not, I'll let my 'smith take a look at it to see if he's able to do some mods to the mag before I invest in the Shilen barrel!
What does JustC mean by having a 'smith who is familiar with min spec chambers?
Also, why must I specify what type of chamber for the 6.5x55 Swede, i.e., Norma Reamer & made to the long-throat military specs, why, do they offer two different size chambers for the Swede??? Just wanting to learn a bit more about this conversion, could you please explain.
I do want to do it the way you folks are suggesting because I want to use bullets up to the 140Gr for this rifle!
Nononsense & Justc please chime in at anytime, I'm fascinated by all that you guys are sharing. Thanks to all so very much! [:D]
Check your e-mail, I responded to some of this.
JustC is suggesting a chamber that is tighter than normal, Minimum Specification. The diameters and lengths are closer to the actual dimensions of the reloaded or loaded cartridge. This seemingly contributes to the potential accuracy of most rifles. It also reduces the amount that each case has to be resized after firing which increases the life of the case. Most of the folks that shoot in competitions use a 'Match' or Minimum Specification chamber. Absolute Minimum chambers are not a good idea for hunting rifles due to potential feeding problems at the most inopportune time...
You do not have to specify a particular chamber since in most situations it's not necessary. I was trying to make you aware of the possibility that some chamber reamers and chambers have shorter throats that make seating the longer bullets out a little harder. The original military chamber works quite nicely for everything that most people want to shoot because it was designed for the longer, heavier military bullets. The only drawback is that the chamber can be a little sloppier than a more modern design. I didn't want you getting some oddball chamber that required your gunsmith to throat out for the longer bullets. In retrospect, I shouldn't have said anything because the possibility is remote. The Norma reamer has a throat angle ground on the reamer that more closely matches the ogive (curve) of the competition bullets that Norma manufactures.
I'm on the run for the rest of today but I'll look at some of my notes and see if I can find some articles that will explain some of this stuff in better detail.
Best.
Here it is!
Just got off the phone with Bert from Shilen Barrels, a very informative, polite, and patient individual.
I mentioned to him that this Savage rifle in 6.5x55 Swede was to be used strictly for hunting purposes and I desired to use bullets in the 129Gr to 140 Gr.
I told him I would be using factory ammo for now, then eventually will be reloading in the near future.
Bert explained they use two types of reamers, one, a standard spec reamer for people using factory ammo in hunting rifles and two, a Norma spec reamer used for competition-type BR shooters who need tighter tolerances in the chamber in regards to throat dimensions to shoot a specific type of bullet.
He advised, I should consider the standard spec reamer since I will be shooting factory ammo & will use hunting bullets once I reload. He said the standard reamer will allow me to chamber probably all the factory hunting rounds in my rifle up to the weights I'm considering. [:D]
However, he says, if I use the Norma reamer, I could easily run into problems when I don't have my specific hand-loaded ammo handy! [:0]
It all hinges on how accurate you want to be, and if you are set on using just your handloads. I prefer my own bullets, but still have a few saami chambers so I can grab a beater gun and go anywhere and shoot any ammo.
if you are having a match barrel blank chambered,..just ask yourself what it's worth to you????? I go min-spec since the barrel you purchase is worthy of all the accuracy you can get. You don't need a match barrel with a loose chamber,...it will pass the point of diminishing returns. If you are ready to handload for this rifle, go min-spec and prep your brass accordingly. It will pay off in spades on paper. If you just want an above accurate hunting rig,..go saami spec chamber.
also, ditch that brass and buy lapua. That brass alone, in the same rig, will outperform all other brass you use. It is very consistent in weight and thickness and utilizes reamed flash holes rather than punched flash holes with burrs on the interior of the case. Ignition is more consisitent as is interior volume.
However, many min-spec chambers have a throat that will allow factory brass in the neck and shoulder area. Setting the dies to the fireformed brass will fix that situation.
Could someone elaborate further on this, still trying to determine all options!
Just trying to see if I can get the best of both worlds! [:p]
Thanks! [:D]
Take your brass and measure the neck thickness. The calipers WILL NOT give the true reading as they are flat and you need a tubing mic (neck thickness mic) to get the true reading, but the calipers will get you close. So,..lets say your neck thickness in .0145" that means that with .0145" x 2 = .029" plus bullet diameter. So if you have a .264" pill (6.5mm), so have a zero clearance of .293". Therefore for a nk dia,...I would specify a NK dia of .296-.297" so my brass would chamber with no interference and wouldn't reach too high a pressure due to insignificant expansion room.
Thank you very much for the explanation it is very forthright!
I understand what you have described.
But, now, I realize I am too much of a novice to play in this arena with the big boyz & I believe I should limit myself to having my Shilen Barrel chambered to a SAAMI spec reamer. [:0]
I believe I will be more than satisfied with an above accurate match-grade sporter weight barrel. As a beginner, I must choose for the functionality aspect of this hunting rig.
I hope to recover the accuracy I relinquished, by finding the best bullet this rifle will shoot, then setting my dies correctly in Partial-FLRing, then with proper load development & finding the correct seating depth out to the lands; it should be more than good enough for my needs. In fact, it probably will end up being better than I can shoot it, for such is the situation with this new Savage 30-06 right now, its sub-MOA @ 100 yds with a good box of factory ammo.
I thank you all for giving me many lessons in this hunting rifle conversion, by explaining to me all my alternatives, and things I should look-out for.
Nononsense, Sandwarrior, & JustC
I am tremendously greatful because you have graciously explained to me, so that I may determine what is the correct choice for my particular application. [:)]
Today, for this great conversion that is very important to me, because of you all, I have made a satisfying educated choice! [:D]
Thank you for all your time, expertise, & patience to see this rookie through the learning curve! [:0]
In all humbleness,
Late-Bloomer [^]