Question on finishing a rifle stock ...

SperrySperry Member Posts: 4,969 ✭✭✭
edited September 2006 in Ask the Experts
First question: Is this tiger maple?
How do I achieve these results?
I'm looking at doing an M1A like this.

http://www.ironwooddesigns.com/Gallerypics/Tiger 2.jpg

Most of my wood projects were black walnut, with multiple coats of tongue oil, 0000 and a slurry of rotten stone between coats.




  • mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    Yes it is Tiger Maple...
    As far as achieving those results just do what you did to the Walnut stocks.
    I prefer Minwax Urethane to the tongue oil FWIW......
  • gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yep, stick pretty much with your tung oil method.
    It is one that takes time, but you can get that rich, deep
    (hand rubbed) finish.

    It depends on the project, but for many I'll finish using 'Watco Danish Oil' instead of tung oil. It penetrates well, dries 'hard', and touches up easily.

    Some folks use boiled linseed oil, particularly for mil-surp. It never really dries, it just quits soaking in. It is a great preserving product, but there are better 'finish coat' products.

    My favorite gunsmith shivers when you tell him you used steel wool between coats. He says " you will leave some 'hairs' , and they will rust on you down the line ". I have not experienced that problem, so I will continue my favorite routine.

    ENJOY !

    OH..be sure to get a seal/finish on ALL faces of the wood. Inside and out.

  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,375 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have used steel wool to finish military stocks for many years without problem. I have a microscope, & am unable to see the alleged whiskers, even with that. It's an urban legend.

    But, if you don't want to take a chance....use bronze wool.

    The wool primarily removes the high sheen; if you leave that step out, you will be fine.....but your finish will be glossy.

  • JKJK Member Posts: 223 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Look closely. Is the fiddles IN or ON the wood? If a persosn does a very good job in to using a "suigi" finish, it can take on the appearance of maple. It can also turn out very beautiful because it brings the contrast to the eyes and fiddles both. I have done this method on a few maple stocks and they all looked top notch. From the pic it looks a little darker than maple so I'm not sure how to answer the question..
  • HighballHighball Member Posts: 15,755
    edited November -1
    If you are talking about the stripes...you cannot 'get a finish like that' unless the figure is there.

    However, a judicious application of a propane torch (one of the little ones) will give a fair imitation of such stripes. Do a test piece to practice...rub it down after scorching it and apply finish. Doesn't take much darkening to get a stripe....
  • JorgeJorge Member Posts: 10,656
    edited November -1
    Unfinished hard maple is blond colored. Will oil alone bring out that chesnut/reddish brown color, or is it necessary to dye, and then oil?

    Edit: Thanks Jim!!! [8D][8D][8D]
  • nononsensenononsense Member, Moderator Posts: 10,661 ******
    edited November -1

    If you go back with the link to the entire Gallery page, it shows the Maple Fiddleback right below the example you used. Your example looks like Walnut in one form or another with fiddleback.



    (These are from Great American Gunstocks at http://www.gunstocks.com/)

    Maple Fiddleback

    Maple Fiddleback

    Black Wanut w/Fiddleback

    Black Walnut w/Fiddleback

    Polite Psycho,

    Generally, you would have to use a stain to get Maple that dark with that color. However, as some will point out I'm sure, there might be exceptions.

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