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Ruger 10/22 cleaning hole in receiver
rock,roll,n,load
Member Posts: 698 ✭✭✭✭
I have seen this noted on a few 10/22 receivers and my question is, won't the bolt get in the way? You would have to remove the bolt first which seems to me to be a lot of extra work. Why not just do like I always do and run a bore snake thru it first. That way you are cleaning from the breech end first and pulling the debris out the muzzle.
"The other note is some people will drill a hole in the rear of the reciever to facilitate cleaning. The hole must be large enough to accomodate the cleaning brush and jay, say about 0.25-inch. The hole should be drilled below the stock so when the rifle is assembled, the hole is invisible. This facilitates cleaning the rifle from the chamber rather than the crown and overcomes a defect in the 10/22 design."
"The other note is some people will drill a hole in the rear of the reciever to facilitate cleaning. The hole must be large enough to accomodate the cleaning brush and jay, say about 0.25-inch. The hole should be drilled below the stock so when the rifle is assembled, the hole is invisible. This facilitates cleaning the rifle from the chamber rather than the crown and overcomes a defect in the 10/22 design."
Comments
I dont consider the 10-22 design to be defective. Hell, the Garand, M1A, M-1 Carbine all must be cleaned from the muzzle. I use aluminum rods which is much softer than the barrel so if it contacts the barrel.... no problem.
This precisely meets the definition of a 'lap'..a device designed to 'load up ' with abrasives and make a hole bigger.
The joints in the typical aluminum rod aid in this gathering of primer debris, unburned powder, and whatever else is deposited in the barrel..till it embeds into that soft aluminum and wears out your bore prematurely.
The proper rod is a one piece, stainless steel or hardened steel..or a specially coated rod designed to resist `loading up'.
quote:I use aluminum rods which is much softer than the barrel so if it contacts the barrel.... no problem.
This precisely meets the definition of a 'lap'..a device designed to 'load up ' with abrasives and make a hole bigger.
The joints in the typical aluminum rod aid in this gathering of primer debris, unburned powder, and whatever else is deposited in the barrel..till it embeds into that soft aluminum and wears out your bore prematurely.
The proper rod is a one piece, stainless steel or hardened steel..or a specially coated rod designed to resist `loading up'.
I have used aluminum rods on one of my 10-22s for 25+ years, the others less time. None of them have shown any signs of premature wear or degraded accuracy.
I keep the threads of the aluminum rods and steel rods, I use on my centerfire rifles, clean and have never had problems with "stuff" build-up on them.
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Removing the barrel too offen can cause the threads in the receiver to loosen up over a period of time.The barrel installed at the factory was not meant to be removed.
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The barrel on a 10/22 is NOT threaded from the factory. Yes, AMT made a signature series reciever that was, but the Ruger's have never been. The Barrel is a slip fit, held in place by a wedge block. However, care must be taken not to over tighten the wedge block bolts, or you might, or will crack the wedge.
Best