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Recoil pad
308 rem
Member Posts: 9 ✭✭
I'm going to put a recoil pad on a 45/70 SMLE - Gibbs Summit. Any suggestions on a recoil pad brand that is grindable? I checked out Brownells and nothing really jumps out at me.
Comments
Thanks in advance.
You should have a "recoil pad shaping fixture" to get the angles
for the heel and toe to fit correctly and follow the lines of the stock. To do it by hand is a heck of a chore to get those angles right. Then you need to worry about how much you can grind off
without getting into the base of the pad. Pads come in 3 sizes, usually, so measure your stock and get the right size pad.
You really should have a belt or a disc sander to get it right.
i have fitted several recoil pads on rifle/shotgun stocks with no more than masking tape and a 6 inch bench grinder with the fine-grit wheel. the recipe is....... take the stock off the action, screw the new kick pad on the stock...... wrap at least three layers of masking tape around the stock on the wood where the wood and pad make contact and grind away. you should be able to eyeball the angle to hold the stock while griding the pad down. take it slow and easy and when your wheel starts to bite into the tape go even slower and easier. you should be able to see when you have taken the first layer of tape off. don't grind very far into the tape margine 1/4 of and inch is too much. i'm confident if i can do it anybody should be able to.
Welcome to the GB forums!
Recoil pad installation is not as daunting as we make. Installing one on a finished stock is just a matter of being a little more careful in the last minutes of fitting and controlling your tools.
The simple method is to use a fitting fixture from either B-Square or Battenfeld. These will help you grind the correct angles and allow you to remove all of the excess material before final fitting.
The material used in pads can vary greatly from hard rubber to the super soft and squishy (tech term) Limb Saver pads. The softer pads require a little more patience and techniques in order to get them finished and looking nice. I've included instruction below from Limb Saver. The only addition I will make is to tell you that some of the finishing can be aided by putting the pad in the freezer to get the material a little stiffer for finishing. I also use single cut files for the majority of the work before switching to sandpaper for the finish.
Be sure to use 1-1/2" 10 mil. (0.010") plumber's tape which is available at most hardware store. It's black and works great to keep you off of the stock. Switch to clear tape for the very last light sanding.
Good instructions with photos:
http://riflestocks.tripod.com/recoil-pad.html
Fixture:
http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.com/184528.html
LimbSaverT Grind-to-Fit Recoil Pad Assemble Instructions
1. Removal of existing recoil pad: Remove the recoil pad using a Phillips screwdriver through the two holes/slits located at the top of the recoil pad. (If your recoil pad has been glued on, please see a gunsmith.)
2. Wood Stock Prep: Determine how much of the stock has to be cut off to obtain the length of pull desired. Caution: Allow for enough pad thickness and enough material to sand smooth.
3. Wrap the stock to protect the finish while handling.
4. Clear tape should be used over the cut line to prevent splintering and chipping. Use tape that won't pull off the finish. Saw off the stock.
5. Sand the stock flat and square with sides. Re-seal the cut surface with wood sealer or stain.
6. Take the new LimbSaver recoil pad and center it up on the stock. Then use a center punch and mark new hole location.
7. Take a 1/8 drill bit, drill two pilot holes for the screws 3/4" deep.
8. Lubricate the screws (use Service Station Door Ease or Vaseline) and fasten pad to stock. Lubricate the screwdriver to prevent damage to the pad.
9. Use a sharp-pointed scribe to accurately mark stock on pad back. This line is the key to an accurate installation.
10. Remove the pad and fasten it upside down on the B-square jig with the bolts furnished with the jig. (Lubricate bolts) Use washers under bolt heads. Be sure that the pad toe and the jig toe match. Do not tighten the bolts enough to squeeze and distort pad.
11. Loosen the pad jig center bolt, then place the base of the jig on the stock.
12. Use a square and align the jig so that the pad back and the stock's toe line is square.
13. Tighten the jig to maintain this angle on the sanding table.
14. Carefully sand with a belt sander the toe end of the pad. Lubricate sanding belt with W-D 40 often. Use 60-80 grit belt for rough. Stay away from your scribe line 1/16th of an inch, then change the belt to 120-240 grit belt for finish. Use a new belt for best results.
15. Loosen the jig's center bolt with a wrench and place the pad jig on the gun butt.
16. Use a square and align the pad jig so that the back of the pad and the stock's upper surface (comb line/heel) are square.
17. Tighten the jig clamp bolt to maintain this angle on the sanding table.
18. Carefully sand the heel end of the pad to the scribe line. Carefully blend the sides from the heel to the toe.
19. Remove the pad from the jig and check fit. Install it permanently on the gun stock (a little furniture wax on the pad helps it look perfect.
Best.