Savage SMLE bolt problems

GAU-8

The bolt head won't remain in the track when cycling the bolt. Is this a common problem? If so how can it be remedied? It's frustrating to have to hold the bolt head in the track to slide the bolt. Any sites you can recommend that sell SMLE parts?

Colt Super

Jason -

I didn't know that Saveage made an SMLE - which stands for "Short Magazine Lee Enfield".

Could you possibly post a photo ??

Thank you and welcome to GunBroker.

Doug Wilson

FEENIX

quote:Originally posted by Colt Super
Jason -

I didn't know that Saveage made an SMLE - which stands for "Short Magazine Lee Enfield".

Could you possibly post a photo ??

Thank you and welcome to GunBroker.

Doug Wilson


Ditto! I too was curios and here's what I found ...

In early 1941, while America was still officially neutral, the British Government contracted with Savage Arms Corp. to build 200,000 No. 4 rifles at the former J. Stevens Arms Co. factory in Chicopee Falls, Mass. After the entry of the U.S. into the war, Savage continued to make the No. 4 under the auspices of lend-lease agreements. The lend-lease Savage-made rifles were marked U.S. Property (the markings existed solely to maintain the pretence that American equipment was being lent to the UK rather than permanently sold to them) at_ Long Branch Arsenal, located near Toronto in Ontario, Canada, produced about 330,000 No. 4 Mk I and I* rifles. In sum total not only did North American orders bolster British production, but actually exceeded it during the war. The No.4 Mk I* was not actually adopted until 1946, despite being produced at the North American factories as early as 1941. The principal variation was in the method of bolt release. The bolt ribway had a new slot cut for the bolt head to be pivoted upward, out of the ribway. The machining at the rear of the ribway, the bolt-head catch, spring and plate were then no longer necessary. On another article it says, the gun was 1/3 Savage.

Here's a very nice set of pix ...

http://www.joesalter.com/detail.php?f_qryitem=13232

For parts, Numrich http://www.e-gunparts.com/model_new.asp?CatID=5831 (if auto link does not work, try going to the main site and navigate from there), is a good start.

I'm sure the resident pros will be here shortly but you might also want to try the SMLE forums.

Good luck!

Ed

MIKE WISKEY

it is possible the bolt guide is worn/broken, a new bolt head would fix this (make sure you get the same 'number' bolt head (1, 2, 3, or 4). also make sure you have the bolt head installed properly (actualy do this first), with the guide 'caught' in its 'slot' (bolt all the way back, push down on the bolt head and push the bolt forward).

GAU-8

quote:Originally posted by MIKE WISKEY
it is possible the bolt guide is worn/broken, a new bolt head would fix this (make sure you get the same 'number' bolt head (1, 2, 3, or 4). also make sure you have the bolt head installed properly (actualy do this first), with the guide 'caught' in its 'slot' (bolt all the way back, push down on the bolt head and push the bolt forward).

This has been looked at several times. I can get the bolt head to follow the guide fine on the extraction cycle, but on chambering cycle, the bolt head finds the opening and pops out. I can try to get a photo put up. Do I need to host the photos on a site or can I post them directly to my post?

My rifle is just like the rifle referenced in here. Also curious if anyone has links to sites that sell SMLE parts.

mls351w

Look under Enfield, the #4 MkI*(Savage and Longbranch)and the British #4 MkI rifles are not SMLE(smelly). It takes a little effort to remove the bolt, so something is definitely wrong.
Contact David Sandlin at dsandlin@argontech.net This man can answer your questions and sell you a part if needed.

Springfield Sporters sells original Enfield parts at half the price that Numrich charges.

Hope this helps!

dfletcher

I'm remembering this from a fellow on You Tube that's into the SMLEs, but IIRC there's a cut in the receiver groove on the right side - is that where the bolt head is popping out?

I would work the action very slowly and examine the leading edge of the bolt and leading edge of the cut in the receiver. Also, the area where the cut in the receiver is absent (the gap that allows the bolt head to be turned up) should be flat and smooth. The bolt head should move flatlt through the gap.

If you'd like to check out You Tube, check Enfield Rifle with a poster of Jollygreenslug.

MIKE WISKEY

Make sure the bolt stop (may not be the right name) is free to move up and down. this is the small piece that you push down when you want to remove the bolt, it sits under the bolt head when the bolt is all the way back.