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Drill and tap action and barrel
amigotres
Member Posts: 7 ✭✭
I need to drill and tap an action and a barrel. I called the local gunsmith and he wants $25 a hole. I see that Williams makes a scope base drill fixture (http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/williams-gun-sight-36898-scope-mt-drill-fixture-reviews) that can be had for under one hundred $, and I would rather do it myself and save a few bucks. Anyone have any experience with this? The action is a 93 Mauser, and the barrel is an octagonal on a mode 99 Savage (I want to install Unertl blocks). I figure that if the fixture works on an octagonal action, it should work on an octagonal barrel easily enough.
Comments
The big thing with getting this right is having the fixture and rifle/action very, very secure before you start drilling. Also, having the rifle secure while it's being drilled. A drill press is the way to go, but make sure you have it on an extended table. And nothing has a chance to fall against it, or traffic can walk by and hit it. The reason I say this is it only takes about .001" off at the stock bases to cause a 1" discrepancy at 100 yds. I have seen some scope bases as far as .005" off. That's a lot of correcting to do @ 100 yds. Then more 'correcting/un-correcting' to do as you dial up (extend) the range of the scope.
It is eight holes. Four on the Mauser receiver, four on the Savage barrel. I am not a gunsmith, but I can find my way around tools. I will be using a drill press, so I can determine how deep to go. Even if I buy the fixture, a drill bit kit, and splurge on a plug tap and a bottom tap it is still a lot cheaper than the 200 bucks the gunsmith wants. Add to that that I get a lot of pleasure from doing things myself. I have two other Mausers leaning against a wall that may also benefit from a scope. Also, I have the feeling that the fixture will get borrowed by some of my like minded friends.
Sounds like you have your mind set already. Heck go have at it!
If the OP thinks $25/hole is to high, wait till he finds he just drilled/tapped through the face of the bolt lug, or snaps off his tap and has to have it EDM'd out.
A octagional M-93 Mauser action? I'd like to see photos of that one.
quote:I figure that if the fixture works on an octagonal action, it should work on an octagonal barrel easily enough
OK, that is what confused me
Welcome to the Gunbroker Forums!
Drilling/tapping and adding your own scope bases is one of the readily accomplished projects for amateurs. It can usually be done with a decent fixture for alignment and a rigid drill.
Be aware of a couple of things:
Check and double check where the drill goes into before doing the actual drilling. There are places where a hole is suitable and where they are not.
Drilling a barrel is a process of careful measurement before doing the actual hole. Common sense should tell you that you can't drill all the way through so you have to know how thick the barrel is at that location.
Brownells has some very nice explanations regarding drilling and tapping holes on their website. I suggest reviewing these before starting up any machine. They also have charts with barrel/caliber dimensions...
As an aside, the high charge for drilling and tapping is a result of experience with broken taps and poorly positioned holes. Broken taps occur even if you do everything exactly right. The method used to correct this problem is EDM and it runs between $25 -$35/hole. Wrong position will cost you hair (from pulling it out) and lots more time and money to correct the error.
Remember the old adage:
Measure twice, cut once. This is extremely appropriate when working with actions and barrels.
Best.
tailgun: I have a brideport mill that I use in conjunction with the Forster Universal sight mounting fixture-its easy, fast, and foolproof. If you are not sure of its design, you might enjoy reading about it on the Forster web site. There is a reason it costs about $400 at Brownells and theres a reason its been around for better than fifty years.
I'd do it too if I have Bridgeport. A fixture, a vise, and hand drill or Dremel tool is not my idea of precision work. If you have the right tool for the right job and ability - GO FOR IT - otherwise, save time, money, and any headaches and let the experts do it.
Excellent response from nononsense as usual.