Stock refinishing questions

djh860

I stripped the old finish with citrus strip. It worked good. Now I'm going to go with Boiled linseed oil for the new finish. I want to make sure all the citrus strip is gone. Can anyone recommend a cleaner I could use on the wood prior to the oil finish?

MIKE WISKEY

laquer thinner or acetone

k.stanonik

When i do woodworking, prior to finish i wipe it down with MEK

victorj19

After using a solvent as recommended above, I suggest you steam the wood to remove any small dents and go over it with some 0000 steel wool.

vdms55

i have used easy-off oven cleaner on several occasions to pull the oil out of the wood caused by over zealous cleaning of the action then stood up so the oil leaches into the butt stock. it also pulls any stain out that has penetrated deep into the wood. used it on many types of wood including western maple and english walnut never harming the wood. be sure to wash good with mild liquid soap and rinse throughly soon after the chemical reaction stops taking place (bubbling and foaming)

Justjump

MEK or acetone works well, then steam, then HOT moist rag to raise whiskers. Then gently with grain use white scotchbrite to remove whiskers. Steel wool can leave fibers that will raise through an oil finish at a later date. If you use linseed oil you need to either build a quick drying cabinet or add japan drier to avoid a long tack. I use both in the summer (high humidity here) Box big enough for 2 full length stocks wired for a 100w light.
Post some pics when you get it done!!

drygulchdan

There are a lot of other topics with very good information on stock refinishing here on the forum. Read up on some of these for other good advice.Just go to Search and type in stock refinishing.

wpage

If you have any stains a bleach solution will help. Rinse well then fine sanding or light steel wool & tack B4 new finish.

bambambam

When I refinish a stock I like to sand the finish off with fine paper, prevents any doubts about chemicals. This isn't easily done if you have checkering which the stripper will need to be used then. When I worked for a cabinet factory we used xylene(xylol in most hardware stores). MEK( Methal Ethal Ketone) and Xylene are the same thing, but MEK is much higher strength with Xylene being a medium strength.MEK is not used well in residental spaces as it's a noxious chemical, ventilate very well. Past experience!! Acetone, MEK, and Xylene all dry well(acetone the slowest). We used them to clean our spray guns and equip. never on the bare wood. Don't know anything about putting any of the above on bar wood, I've never done it myself.

victorj19

quote:Originally posted by Justjump
MEK or acetone works well, then steam, then HOT moist rag to raise whiskers. Then gently with grain use white scotchbrite to remove whiskers. Steel wool can leave fibers that will raise through an oil finish at a later date.

Thanks Jumpstart.

I forgot about using a hot moist rag. I'll use a scotchbrite on bare wood and save the steel wool for between coats of oil and final finish (I prefer a satin finish). Scotchbrite wasn't available the last time I refinished a stock. I'm currently doing 2 right now.