Screw tightening on Remy 700

Long GunLong Gun Member Posts: 17 ✭✭
edited February 2007 in Ask the Experts
I had the action out of my 700 LVSF and borrowed a calibrated torque wrench from our metrology lab to set the 3 screws on the bottom to the factory recommended specifications: 55 in-lb for the front, 40 for the middle, and 20 for the rear screw. To tell you the truth I could not bring myself to put 40 in-lbs on that middle screw (which is the smallest of the three). It never felt like it was going to get there. I probably stopped around 30. No, it did not strip, but it just felt like it just wanted to keep on tightening. Because the torque wrench has a 14" handle on it and the screw was the smallest of the 3, I guess you could say I chickened out. One would not be able to feel what was happening to the screw with a handle that long until it was too late. Any thoughts on this???? Should I go ahead and attempt 40 in-lbs? I've found some of you guys to be extremely knowledgeable so if you KNOW something please share. BTW, the LVSF has a Bell & Carlson composit stock if that helps any (it's "factory" in other words). Thanks all.
Long Gun


  • sinsirsinsir Member Posts: 31 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    i'm not sure what your factory specs are, but if it's a B+C stock, i'd drop them a line or an e-mail, and see what they recommend for there stocks. they have good customer service, who are helpfull. as far as the torque goes, i assume that your not just cranking one bolt up to spec in one shot, before moving to the next ?

    if so, try setting the screws, then torqueing one bolt to 10-in/lbs then the next, and the third, then stager back and fourth, 10 in/lbs at a time till the specs are achieved, it might not help your fear of stripping the bolt, but it's the right way to do it, and will at least seat everything a little better.
  • HighballHighball Member Posts: 15,755
    edited November -1
    You may be sucking that action into a bow..giving you the feeling you describe.
    Generally,when tightening a well bedded action, you can feel instantly when the screw 'bites'..takes all the slack out of the 'stack'...and tightening to that 60 in.lb., for example, is straightforward.

    I will often leave the middle screw rather loose..particurally in a non=glass bedded stock. I do not want an action 'flex' in the middle...
  • nononsensenononsense Member, Moderator Posts: 10,648 ******
    edited November -1
    Long Gun,

    That's a big torque wrench handle.

    Have you bedded the action stress-free to the pillars on your stock yet? If not, it's going to be guess and test for the rifle and your loads.

    I start both the front and rear screws at 40 - 45 in./lbs. tightened alternating then I snug the middle screw which merely holds the front of the trigger guard. In your case, you can start with this then go to the range and test some loads. You're shooting in the dark because you haven't established an accuracy load yet to use as a comparison. Judge by the shape (round) and size of the group. Make little adjustments in the tension on the front or rear screws one at a time to see what effect it has on the group. This may take a while but it's worth the time and the effort.

  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682
    edited November -1
    Nononsense is right about that being a big handle on the torque wrench. I use the screw driver type that have the calibrated clicker clutch. Tou really do need to establish an accuracy base line before you go much further. How do you know if you have improved consistancy, or worsened it, without doing that. I have seen a factory XR-100, in 223, using Remington factory 62 grain match ammo, and a weaver 8-32x scope shoot 1/2 inch groups at 300 yards. That is a rifle/scope/ammo combination i would not touch. Besides we have been waiting to hear from you how well this thing shoots![:D][:D][:D]
  • JustCJustC Member, Moderator Posts: 16,038 ******
    edited November -1
    I would only use a "clicking" type torque wrench, not one of those old timey deals with the indicator needle,..they aren't accurate enough and run the risk of overtorqueing before you know it.

    If the stock doesn't have pillars or bedding blocks,..I would be careful going much over the amount you already have applied.

    I snug up the front screw first while pressing firmly down against the muzzle to seat the lug as far back as I can. Then I move to the back screw and run it snug, then back to the front for the torque, then back to the back for torque. The frint trigger guard screw only needs enough to not back out by itself.

    Best to run accuracy tests while adjusting things to find out where it likes to be,..then use a torque wrench that "slips" to determine just what amount each screw is set at,..then keep this info about that rifle somewhere that you can refer to it, should you remove the barreled action again.
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