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dura-coat

redhead71redhead71 Member Posts: 2,337 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited January 2008 in Ask the Experts
how do you safely remove dura-coat from a pistol's finish?

Comments

  • redhead71redhead71 Member Posts: 2,337 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    How good is Dura-coat? I was thinking about doing my m1a.is it really worth the money.
  • Wehrmacht_45Wehrmacht_45 Member Posts: 3,377
    edited November -1
    Its good stuff. I like KG Gun Coat a little better. Seems to be a little harder, but also harder to do.
  • Bill DeShivsBill DeShivs Member Posts: 1,264 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    By the time you sandblast, parkerize, and paint it, it's not exactly a home project for most people.
  • Grunt2Grunt2 Member Posts: 2,524 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mixed results...MOST turned out great...Some didn't. Tried letting it cure normally and baked some per directions. Didn't seem to matter much. I have one of their camo kits and thinking of finishing a real nice STG-58...Get a cheap air brush (Harbor Freight)...I really like the control you have with the air brush.
    Retired LEO
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  • scrubberguyscrubberguy Member Posts: 219 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    redhead71:
    I did a dura coat job on an old ruger 22 pistol last year and everyone was impressed with it. Wasn't to hard to do BUT I do have access to a nice sandblasting cabinet at work!

    Air brush a good suggestion if you go forward with this project. I'll also recomend the quick release air hose from harbor freight for thier air brush. I'll also suggest a good regulator for air pressure ( Sears) control. The little cans of air just freeze up about half way through any job.[8D]
  • tobystobys Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I tried a bunch of other brands, and Dura Coat was by far the best. Check out my write-up: http://www.tobystactical.com/2007/11/duracoat-rifle-paint.html
  • vicg1vicg1 Member Posts: 1,033 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Bill DeShivs
    By the time you sandblast, parkerize, and paint it, it's not exactly a home project for most people.


    but with duracoat you don't sandblast or park prior to painting... it is a very easy to apply finish and very forgiving... tough to screw it up.
  • dbain99dbain99 Member Posts: 2,104 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I used Dura coat on a Marlin and a Jager .22. Blasting is a must. Its a simple process once you get the right equipment, decent air brush kit and a good regulator. I have used the Marlin a good bit as a truck gun and I am pleased with the durability. On my Jager I painted the plastic as well as the steel, I havent used it much at all so i cant say how good it will hold up on plastic stocks.
  • NwcidNwcid Member Posts: 10,674
    edited November -1
    I have used dura Bake (bake on kind in a spray can) on a 10/22 receiver build I am doing. I have used it on 10 rusty M1 Carbine mags, have 3 more to do and 10 Sten mags prepped to do. The mags and receiver have turned out great, but I have just done them so I can not comment on durability.

    I am getting ready to redo a shotgun for a buddy of mine. It is too big for the oven so I have the spay on (no bake) kind for that project. I am all set up with an airbrush and Duracoat but have not go too it yet.
  • AHansenAHansen Member Posts: 1,002 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by tobys
    I tried a bunch of other brands, and Dura Coat was by far the best. Check out my write-up: http://www.tobystactical.com/2007/11/duracoat-rifle-paint.html


    Nice write up
  • GeriGeri Member Posts: 2,100 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Good write up. I used Dura Coat the first time on shotguns. I talked to the company, and since I did not have a bake oven, it sat for the 6 wks. Salt water will not affect the finish, nor will the sweat from hands, or animal blood. It is good stuff. I try to promote it but people still want a hot dip blue.
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