Sacrificial screws.

Jorge

Somewhere,I came across the term "sacrificial screws" to be put in place when polishing a revolver - so as to avoid damaging the original screws and dishing the frame.

When machine polishing a SS revolver, do one place the screws tight all the way, or are they better left backed a little?

Thanks in advance for your response.

GuvamintCheese

It would make sense to back them out level to the surface to be polished, maybe even a hair higher.... And even then I would hand polish around the screws and lettering. My .02 cents.

azpowerwagon

Either purchase flat top(filister)headed screws or flatten the tops of the 'sacrificial screws' to be flush with the surface when tightened. They can be approx .010 high and will polish flat. Do not use them if below the surface.
Once flattened, be sure you will have enough of a slot to install/remove the screw. Otherwise, just cut it deeper.

cussedemgun

Mr. Psycho,

Metal polishing is an art. The higher degree of the polished finish, the more waviness or out of flat conditions will stand out. When you polish metal, you remove material. Power tools remove metal faster than hand work.

"Sacrificial screws" is but one trick to help keep the area around screw holes flat ( without that dished out look ). Square edges are the real test for a polisher using power tools. Any stampings also will show buffing from rounded edges to light, inconsistant stamp depth.

If you are thinking of refinishing any of your guns. I suggest you practice, practice, practice, before atempting anything of value.

Polish work looks easy when someone else does it. Remember, removing metal can be done by anyone, putting it back is another matter!

Jim

SP45

As stated, it is real easy to make a flat surface look wavy. Especially with a wheel. After it is blued you can really see the power buffing. The screw technique works very well, especially if you are replacing a sideplate. You may have to start with a drawfile and then work down through grades of emory paper. It depends on the type of finish you are trying to get. When using the emory paper I find it best to always use it wet and I wrap it around a fine flat file of appropriate size. Trust your eyes. If it doesn't look flat or you can see lines they will have to come out. Also you may not be able to remove all the imperfections or pits. When you get around lettering you have to make a decision when to stop or the lettering will be gone or not look right. Sometimes it is better to leave a little pitting and keep lettering and such intact. It is something you get a feel for. After you do a complete one you will know why restoration people get so much money. The first one I did took about 20 hours of hand polishing. It came out great but you can't make money that way. If you don't have one a small soft jaw vise of some sort to hold the pieces works great( look at the Bessey S-10). Good luch and have fun.