In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

Project gun what to use to fill in pits and slots?

WagionWagion Member Posts: 2,464 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited January 2008 in Ask the Experts
I have Mosin that I am fixing up and i took off the front and rear sight now I want to fill in the slots from the set pins and rust sand it all down and paint or reblue it.

Ideas?

JB weld is the only thing I can think of to use but unless I use paint instead or blueing it will show through.

Comments

  • Bill DeShivsBill DeShivs Member Posts: 1,264 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are many things you can use if you paint the gun-Bondo, etc.
    If you blue the pits will have to be removed by sanding/polishing.
  • Hawk CarseHawk Carse Member Posts: 4,381 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The Duracoat people have Durafil which is kind of a Bondo for guns. Nothing to do but paint over it though.
  • Wehrmacht_45Wehrmacht_45 Member Posts: 3,377
    edited November -1
    I have found that high temperature (500 degree) epoxy works very well for a filler. Have used it in a couple of dura coated guns with excellent results. It takes a long time to set up, but there are few things tougher than that stuff.
  • 5mmgunguy5mmgunguy Member Posts: 3,092 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    +1 on Wehrmacht_45's approach.
  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have an old 1911 that suffered from massive light pitting. (mixed slide and parts too,so don't you collectors get concerned) A good bead blast and blue turned out really well.
  • gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I filled some dove-tail slots with a "dark gray epoxy type metal filler". It's been many years, and thats the best description of the filler product I can give...but that doesn't change my point.

    After the filler cured, I smoothed/leveled off the area when prepping all the metal for a (rust) re-blue. The 'filler' remained dark gray, of course, but it didn't look bad. It was level with the metal and had a semi-gloss appearance. It almost looked like some type of in-lay or 'beauty mark'. Don't forget the most important ingredient....patience.

    ENJOY !
  • codenamepaulcodenamepaul Member Posts: 2,931
    edited November -1
    I have used pure lead to fill some pits. If you reblue-it's barely noticable

    Bead blast piece to the white.
    Warm the piece first-be very careful with the heat-very careful. With some molten lead, pour over the pitted area, hold it level. It will fill the pits. Once the lead cools a bit, sand off the excess. It may take a couple of tries for the pits to 'tin' themselves and the lead to stick.
Sign In or Register to comment.