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replacing 1911 hammer?

goldeneagle76goldeneagle76 Member Posts: 4,359
edited January 2008 in Ask the Experts
What other parts should usually be changed when putting a new commander style hammer on a 1911? I am looking at a used gun and want to make sure it was done right.

Comments

  • PearywPearyw Member Posts: 3,699
    edited November -1
    If you don't have experience in fitting 1911 hammers please take it to someone who does.
  • geeguygeeguy Member Posts: 1,047
    edited November -1
    You need to change the Sear and I would also put new pins in and a new main spring, plus read up on "fitting" the hammer so it strikes even. However, the relationship of the hammer "hooks" to the Sear is very critical and if not done properly done can result in "auto" mode or "follow" of the hammer to the slide.

    While I realize some people just remove the old hammer and put in a new one, and they sometimes work, that's not the proper method. I'm sure PerryShooter will be along and give you a more detailed explanation.

    Good luck.
  • CubsloverCubslover Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sorry to take up a post, but I think he is asking about what he needs to look for when looking at a gun which has had the hammer replaced.
    Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
  • dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,870 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Look at the sear, disconnector. strut, spring, and pins. It probably hard to tell if any of these were replaced, unless a plumber did the job.
  • gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd arrange to visit your favorite gunsmith, not the seller's.
    If you don't have a favorite, you should (and will) find one soon.

    Good Luck
    ENJOY !
  • perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,105 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hello There are many good fire control parts on the market from folks like Brownells and Cylinder & Slide Shop .However NONE of these are DROP IN parts I must commend you for asking First . The big thing is the relationship between Hammer /Sear/ Safety. Where many people get into trouble is changing the Hammer and sear now they cock the hammer engage the safety test the trigger the hammer does not drop and they say [:p]OK[:p]
    Now they take the safety off and hear a loud BANG[:(!][V][:(] .The safety has to be fitted to the sear. The second thing that happens is they work on the hammer hooks and sear nose . They load in a full magazine and drop the slide This time they hear a loud BURP as the pistol empties the magazine in >01 seconds also not good [:(!][V][xx(][:(]. The best 1911 pistol smith had to start some time but IMHO you need a mentor or a very good understanding of how the fire control elements work. Please be safe.
  • goldeneagle76goldeneagle76 Member Posts: 4,359
    edited November -1
    the guy that has the used 1911 says that an ex-armoror (sp?) for one of the armed forces replaced the hammer on the gun. Said it is what he did for 20+ years and it was done right. The guy has been real up front with everything else. I still think I will take it to a gunsmith in my area to give it the once over if I do buy it.
  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by goldeneagle76
    the guy that has the used 1911 says that an ex-armoror (sp?) for one of the armed forces replaced the hammer on the gun. Said it is what he did for 20+ years and it was done right. The guy has been real up front with everything else. I still think I will take it to a gunsmith in my area to give it the once over if I do buy it.


    No knock against the guy, he may very well be another Armand Swensen - but maybe not and veracity does not determine whether he did a good job or a bad job, only that he truly believes he did a good job. And he may have, but you've taken the correct approach by deciding to bring it to a gunsmith.
  • RCrosbyRCrosby Member Posts: 3,808 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There's nothing quite like the unexpected thrill of having your favorite ACP go full auto. Been there, done that. (Many years ago, but "it seems like it was yesterday".)
    A hearty AMEN, to those who err on the side of caution.
    Good luck.
  • COLTCOLT Member Posts: 12,637 ******
    edited November -1
    ...To install a new hammer right, you just put it in, just the hammer...the newer parts have come a LONG way, it's easy. Then you need to check for safety/fire function...that said, read on.

    ...If your going to have to hone ANYTHING (hammer/sear) to get the new hammer to fit...unless you REALLY know what your doing, find a good pistolsmith, and I MEAN pistolsmith not a general gunsmith as most gunsmiths only "think" they can work tricks w/a 1911.

    ...You would have to know what your looking for to tell if someone has tricked the trigger...which in almost all cases involves honing (fitting) the hammer/sear engagement...best left to someone who KNOW's WTH they are doing. If your concerned, get a snap cap and check out all the safties and the hammer drop yourself, not rocket science...just go down the check list of what the 1911 is SUSPOSED to do. Then take her out back and give her a real live round check.

    ...A quality hammer, trigger, sear, sear spring, grip safety can very easily be installed, if you know why each part functions and why. While in there you can remove the MS plastic cap (if it's a newer Colt, clone) and add an SS cap...add a reduced power MS...though niether is needed; I just like steel vs plastic nd the reduced power MS will help some w/the trigger. ..[;)]

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