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Garand Re-Weld

WWII_EnthusiastWWII_Enthusiast Member Posts: 147 ✭✭✭
edited January 2008 in Ask the Experts
I have a Garand with a serial number of 643XXX which dates it to June of 42. The part number for the receiver is D 28291-17 but the heat lot is O or 0 16C this does not match what I have in my book by J.C Harrison as the correct Heat#. Is it possible that the discrepancy is in the book and not my receiver. I hope that it is but I am not sure any and all information is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • givettegivette Member Posts: 10,886
    edited November -1
    Go back to the book. See if drawing revision No. 17 coincides with the serNo date of manufacture. Should ease your concern somewhat. Joe
  • 101AIRBORNE101AIRBORNE Member Posts: 1,252 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Per Scott Duff:

    Springfield receiver-serial no. 547269-manufactured in April 1942
    has the same drawing no. with a heat lot no. of REP 25 C.

    Serial no. 701382-manufactured in July 1942 also has the same
    drawing no. but with a heat lot no. of O 16.

    I *believe* that you are okay but if concerned-have someone do
    NDT on the receiver.

    Best.
  • WWII_EnthusiastWWII_Enthusiast Member Posts: 147 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I didn't see the drawing revision, but what the Scott Duff book says does ease my mind. Thanks again.
  • Dumpster BabyDumpster Baby Member Posts: 291 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Many years ago I unknowingly bought a National Ordnance Garand with a reweld receiver and a Santa Fe BM-59 with a reweld receiver. Believe me, it doesn't take much close inspection to detect a reweld receiver. I've seen pictures of very well done rewelds, but it's always apparent that something's not right. There are small discontinuities in the channels and grooves, in flat surfaces, etc. Some jobs are so well done that it's not apparent from a surface inspection on the outside, but it's really hard to do perfect machining on the inside of a receiver. I haven't had much dealings with reweld op rods, but the one on my "Beretta" BM-59 clone is very obvious.
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