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S&W .38 Special Question

breakerdanbreakerdan Member Posts: 364 ✭✭✭
edited June 2008 in Ask the Experts
What date of manufacture on S&W K frames would it be possible to shoot +p 38s like the Remington 158 grain +p "FBI Load," without
loosening up my guns or causing damage?

My guns in question would be:
Military&Police 1920 vintage
K38 pre model 15 mid 1950s vintage

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    cussedemguncussedemgun Member Posts: 985 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Dan,

    Your question would be better answered if you contact Smith & Wesson.

    ga@smith-wesson.com

    1-800-331-0852 8am to 8pm M thru F eastern time

    Jim
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    nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,880 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It can't be done; that's why S&W developed the L frame.

    Neal
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    breakerdanbreakerdan Member Posts: 364 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
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    Laredo LeftyLaredo Lefty Member Posts: 13,451 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by nmyers
    It can't be done; that's why S&W developed the L frame.

    Neal


    But they do now make the "J" frame in .357 mag.
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    dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    Neither one will hold up to a steady diet of +p's. Shooting a few shouldn't hurt them. That's the same way with the model 19, a steady diet of 357mag. will loosen them up.
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    5mmgunguy5mmgunguy Member Posts: 3,853
    edited November -1
    What about the K frame Model 66 in 357?
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    beantownshootahbeantownshootah Member Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Have to disagree a bit here.

    Despite the hype, the .38+P isn't all that much more powerful than the "ordinary" .38 special.

    SAAMI spec maximum pressure is 17,000 PSI for .38 special.
    Maximum pressure for .38+P is 18,500 PSI.
    Maximum pressure for .357 magnum is 35,000 PSI.

    As you can see, .38+P isn't even 10% more pressure than the regular .38, while .357 magnum is over twice the pressure.

    .38+P was specifically designed to be fired in modern .38 specials revolvers, and that's before there was any special "+P" rating on the guns themselves.

    So *any* gun capable of firing .357 should be able to fire UNLIMITED numbers of .38+P without damage, and that includes the K-frame .357s, as well as all the recent era +P-rated J and K frames.

    If you consider that most of the modern guns in .38 have otherwise identical versions in .357 magnum, it seems clear that these should have no problem with .38+P rounds, even in large numbers. For example, the alloy frame .38+P J-frame snubnoses have been "torture tested" with thousands of rounds of .38+P, and they hold up.

    I wouldn't recommend trying it, but in fact, most of the modern guns are probably capable of handling ammo hotter than .38+P safely.

    As more food for thought, guns are supposed to be tested with "proof" loads that have 30%-40% more pressure than the safe maximum.

    Now with respect to the specific guns above, even though it would probably be safe, why would you want to push things with a nearly 100 year old 1920s era gun? With newer K-frames being relatively cheap and common, why risk beating up your vintage gun?

    On the other hand, a good condition mid-1950s K-frame can probably handle +P rounds just fine. How many you'd have to fire before you noticed timing or end-shake issues, I have no idea, but I suspect it would number in the hundreds to thousands of rounds. I wouldn't worry at all about a few in there for "nightstand" use or occasional practice.

    Again, wouldn't hurt to ask to ask Smith, who are probably going to tell you that its safe to use the ammo in either gun, but it will accelerate wear on the gun.

    edit: quote:What about the K frame Model 66 in 357?
    What about it?

    That gun is rated for .357 magnum. I'd imagine you could put literally thousands of .38+Ps through it without noticing any damage or premature wear issues. As above, .38+Ps are "baby" rounds for any gun designed for .357.

    As to wear in K frames with .357 magnums, that's a more interesting question.

    The wear issues described in K-frames with .357s were really more prevalent in competition shooters who put thousands of full power loads through their guns.

    Supposedly the K frames are more susceptible to damage from the lighter 125 grain bullets as opposed to the heavier 158 grainers, because the former hit the forcing cone faster, and the shorter overall bullet length means more hot gas escapes around the bullet eroding the forcing cone.

    The average shooter who is probably shooting mostly .38s in their model 66 (or 19) with only occasional 357s, will probably never have an issue. If you want a gun for *only* .357, and LOTs of them, you're better off with one of the L or N frames.
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    GarthGarth Member Posts: 381 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    +1 beantownshootah. personally i have fired a lot of hot ammo through the models i once owned. 1 model 29 44 mag(dirty harry), 1 model 19 357 mag snub nose, 1 model 686 357 mag 4 inch stainless, and 1 model 60 38 special snub nose stainless. the only model that i didnt break was the model 60. smith&wesson revolvers are the best in the world however, be sure to only fire the recomended ammuniton for your make and model smitty revolver and you shouldnt run into any of the problems that i once did. if your wanting a really tough revolver that will stand up to almost anything you put through it, i strongly recomend you search for a ruger model sp-101 357 mag snub nose revolver. its not a smitty but it will shoot practically everything you put through it! best.
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    ZinderblocZinderbloc Member Posts: 925 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    +2. Shoot all the +P loads you want from your K-frame revolvers.
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