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Old I/J revolver + .22?
ninefingers
Member Posts: 24 ✭✭
I have an old Iver Johnson top-break, exposed-hammer, .32 S & W (short) revolver; don't know model #; but S/N is 711985.
My Question: How old is it? Is it an antique or C & R? Is an A/C & R Dependent on Last Patent Date, and Not Manufacture Date? (I was told it's from 1898; but it could be Much Newer.)
Since it uses the .32 S & W (short), that's hard to find and $$ reloads when I find it, is it then Also an antique/ C & R?
I also have an old Remington model 34 .22 rifle; s/n 58637. It is dated around 1932-1935; making it 76-79 y.o. I heard something about being over 50 yo makes it "classic" or "collectible", but not sure. This gun has two odd features, as a dealer pointed out: A bolt-action tube magazine, as most used a clip; and it will take .22 short, long, and/or long rifle, all mixed up due to its unique follower cutoff. I think both features were to save money in the Depression. Is this, then, a C & R due to its features?
Thanks![:)]
My Question: How old is it? Is it an antique or C & R? Is an A/C & R Dependent on Last Patent Date, and Not Manufacture Date? (I was told it's from 1898; but it could be Much Newer.)
Since it uses the .32 S & W (short), that's hard to find and $$ reloads when I find it, is it then Also an antique/ C & R?
I also have an old Remington model 34 .22 rifle; s/n 58637. It is dated around 1932-1935; making it 76-79 y.o. I heard something about being over 50 yo makes it "classic" or "collectible", but not sure. This gun has two odd features, as a dealer pointed out: A bolt-action tube magazine, as most used a clip; and it will take .22 short, long, and/or long rifle, all mixed up due to its unique follower cutoff. I think both features were to save money in the Depression. Is this, then, a C & R due to its features?
Thanks![:)]
Comments
I have an old Iver Johnson top-break, exposed-hammer, .32 S & W (short) revolver; don't know model #; but S/N is 711985.
My Question: How old is it? Is it an antique or C & R? Is an A/C & R Dependent on Last Patent Date, and Not Manufacture Date? (I was told it's from 1898; but it could be Much Newer.)
Unless it's one of the very earliest, the "real" serial number will be on the left grip frame under the grip, and will have a letter prefix. That and the patent dates marked on it are necessary to date it.
Also, did you possibly copy an extra 1 in the number you list? IJ is believed to have started a new number series each time 100000 was reached.