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CETME bolt sticking

nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
edited March 2012 in Ask the Experts
so I FINALLY got a CETME. Picked it up today, did a thorough once over on it and took it out to the range.

about halfway through the range session, the charging handle started sticking when I would go to chamber a round. It didn't do this when I picked it up (when it as MUCH dirtier) and didn't do it on the first couple of strings. Took it home, cleaned it, lubed it, it's still doing it. It's hard to pull back and when you do, it sticks to the rear without being put in the recess on the tube. Takes a whack to get it loose, but when you do, it flies forward.

What gives?

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    mark christianmark christian Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 24,456 ******
    edited November -1
    The issues with the CETME clones is bolt gap. You could have your cocking handle resting against the bolt carrier which is effecting the bolt gap or the gap. See if you can retract the cocking handle slightly with some free-play, maybe just a tenth of an inch. If not then you will need to start removing some metal. Otherwise your problem is likely straight-up excessive bolt gap and that needs to be measured with a gage. If the gap is excessive this can often be solved by replacing the original bolt locking rollers with a set that is slightly smaller is size and this will close up the gap. There were a number of companies selling those aftermarket small rollers but you will have to find them.

    The CETME clones are prone to functioning problems and often need fine tuning to get them working properly.
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    nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    The issues with the CETME clones is bolt gap. You could have your cocking handle resting against the bolt carrier which is effecting the bolt gap or the gap. See if you can retract the cocking handle slightly with some free-play, maybe just a tenth of an inch. If not then you will need to start removing some metal. Otherwise your problem is likely straight-up excessive bolt gap and that needs to be measured with a gage. If the gap is excessive this can often be solved by replacing the original bolt locking rollers with a set that is slightly smaller is size and this will close up the gap. There were a number of companies selling those aftermarket small rollers but you will have to find them.

    The CETME clones are prone to functioning problems and often need fine tuning to get them working properly.


    But why would it only be an issue after I shot it for awhile and cleaned it? The rollers were the same size when I picked it up and it was a little stiff and gritty, but the cocking handle worked more or less flawlessly. It would lock back in the slot, unlock and fly forward without any extra help. If I just pulled it straight back, it wouldn't lock back and move forward vigorously just like it's supposed to.
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    mark christianmark christian Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 24,456 ******
    edited November -1
    The dirt and crude was most likely masking the bolt gap issue. When you cleaned the rifle the gap opened up and now it won't function. The change in roller size is intended to decrease the bolt gap and is not based only wear the rollers themselves. Naturally they were the same size when you started firing as when you finished. Rollers are a quick fix because otherwise your gun smith has to start removing metal.

    The list of problems with the CETME knock offs is legendary. I only mentioned one possible cause among the dozens of problems that those rifles have.
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    llamallama Member Posts: 2,637 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Loose cocking tube got out of alignment due to recoil.
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    nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    The dirt and crude was most likely masking the bolt gap issue. When you cleaned the rifle the gap opened up and now it won't function. The change in roller size is intended to decrease the bolt gap and is not based only wear the rollers themselves. Naturally they were the same size when you started firing as when you finished. Rollers are a quick fix because otherwise your gun smith has to start removing metal.

    The list of problems with the CETME knock offs is legendary. I only mentioned one possible cause among the dozens of problems that those rifles have.


    So I shouldn't have cleaned it?[:D]

    The way you explained it actually makes sense. I'll look into getting some new rollers.
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    tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Who built it? Sounds like a CAI build. If it is, that is 85% of your problem.

    Best
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    nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    The issues with the CETME clones is bolt gap. You could have your cocking handle resting against the bolt carrier which is effecting the bolt gap or the gap. See if you can retract the cocking handle slightly with some free-play, maybe just a tenth of an inch. If not then you will need to start removing some metal. Otherwise your problem is likely straight-up excessive bolt gap and that needs to be measured with a gage. If the gap is excessive this can often be solved by replacing the original bolt locking rollers with a set that is slightly smaller is size and this will close up the gap. There were a number of companies selling those aftermarket small rollers but you will have to find them.

    The CETME clones are prone to functioning problems and often need fine tuning to get them working properly.


    Not the bolt or rollers. Sticking like mad when field stripped and the bolt and recoil spring separated from the cocking handle.
  • Options
    nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    The issues with the CETME clones is bolt gap. You could have your cocking handle resting against the bolt carrier which is effecting the bolt gap or the gap. See if you can retract the cocking handle slightly with some free-play, maybe just a tenth of an inch. If not then you will need to start removing some metal. Otherwise your problem is likely straight-up excessive bolt gap and that needs to be measured with a gage. If the gap is excessive this can often be solved by replacing the original bolt locking rollers with a set that is slightly smaller is size and this will close up the gap. There were a number of companies selling those aftermarket small rollers but you will have to find them.

    The CETME clones are prone to functioning problems and often need fine tuning to get them working properly.


    I get what you're saying (after doing some research) but I'm still confused as to why the cocking handle would be balling up when it's completely field stripped and the bolt/carrier and recoil spring aren't actin on it. Clearly there's some interference inside the cocking tube assembly itself that's creating the issue[?]

    There is a gage that can check for the straightness of the tube and a mandrel which can be used to correct misalignment if it is present. These are simple things that Century never bothered to check when they slapped the CETME kits onto their receivers. Since you are the guy who jumped on me for using the word profit instead of prophet, I will say up front that I don't know is straightness is an actual word.
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    17tobyracing17tobyracing Member Posts: 3,429 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
    Who built it? Sounds like a CAI build. If it is, that is 85% of your problem.

    Best


    +1000, CETME + CAI = JUNK! Sell it and pick-up an FAL.
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    nemesisenforcernemesisenforcer Member Posts: 10,513 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by nemesisenforcer
    quote:Originally posted by mark christian
    The issues with the CETME clones is bolt gap. You could have your cocking handle resting against the bolt carrier which is effecting the bolt gap or the gap. See if you can retract the cocking handle slightly with some free-play, maybe just a tenth of an inch. If not then you will need to start removing some metal. Otherwise your problem is likely straight-up excessive bolt gap and that needs to be measured with a gage. If the gap is excessive this can often be solved by replacing the original bolt locking rollers with a set that is slightly smaller is size and this will close up the gap. There were a number of companies selling those aftermarket small rollers but you will have to find them.

    The CETME clones are prone to functioning problems and often need fine tuning to get them working properly.


    I get what you're saying (after doing some research) but I'm still confused as to why the cocking handle would be balling up when it's completely field stripped and the bolt/carrier and recoil spring aren't actin on it. Clearly there's some interference inside the cocking tube assembly itself that's creating the issue[?]

    There is a gage that can check for the straightness of the tube and a mandrel which can be used to correct misalignment if it is present. These are simple things that Century never bothered to check when they slapped the CETME kits onto their receivers. Since you are the guy who jumped on me for using the word profit instead of prophet, I will say up front that I don't know is straightness is an actual word.


    I'd forgotten that I "jumped on you" but I checked: straightness is a word.

    My mild correction/sarcasm must have had quite an impact for you to remember it.[B)]
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