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Simulating a patina finish

austinsgunsaustinsguns Member Posts: 143 ✭✭✭
edited April 2012 in Ask the Experts
Does anyone have advise on the best method to make a dark drown patina on metal?

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    TANK78ZTANK78Z Member Posts: 1,332 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Birchwood Casey makes a "plum" brown metal coloring liquid.
    Works great, just follow the instructions to the letter
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    stegsteg Member Posts: 871 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Get an older copy of the Dixie Gunworks Catalog. In the back of it you will find all sorts of neat antique gun information, including various browning formulae.
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    rhmc24rhmc24 Member Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are various recipes to make it but of those available in a bottle, the best by far in my 40 years of old gun work is Laurel Mountain Forge Browning and Degreaser. Available from Brownells if you can't find it locally.

    It is a cold process, no heat used. Works in a few hours. It's not picky about preparation.

    Birchwood Casey is good and widely available, quick to use but needs heat and I find it hard to get an even color.
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    austinsgunsaustinsguns Member Posts: 143 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks guys! I think I will try both. I had to weld a broken tang on a win 1890, so I need to blend the patina back in with the receiver. I hope it works well.
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    BigLoop22BigLoop22 Member Posts: 620 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    snapcrackle,

    I do not know if this will help you, but I will add that you can get some patina chemicals from a stained glass supplyhouse. Various companies make a few "colors" (black; aged patina; green/ verdegirs) for each of the different metals (zinc; copper; lead; steel) that are used in the industry.
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    Alan RushingAlan Rushing Member Posts: 9,002 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Helpful info ... thanks. [^]
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