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desert eagle V11 or X1X

nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
edited February 2003 in Ask the Experts
How can I tell which one I am looking at? ser#mr004xxx
Neither one is marked model
Thanks steve

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    19111911 Member Posts: 50 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think i heard someone say that the most obvious difference between the older model was the safety. on the older model i think the safety is flatter to the slide, but i am not sure your best bet would be to contact magnum research.
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    bambihunterbambihunter Member Posts: 10,685 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You can read more about them here: http://www.magnumresearch.com/
    Supposedly, the biggest difference between these two models is that the X1X is based on the .50 frame and is completely backwards compatible regardless of which caliber you choose.
    If I recall, the .50 VII used a different frame than the .44 and smaller.
    You can order parts that will upgrade the various models from their website.
    I miss my Desert Eagle, I finally got rid of it (it was something about carrying a .44 sidearm that weighed more than my .44 carbine). [:D]
    On a side note, if you don't already have the VII series, I wouldn't buy one unless it is a .50 and a steal, otherwise spend the extra money and get the XIX series.

    It doesn't matter what you shoot, just shoot it well...
    Fanatic collector of the 10mm auto.
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    nelchrisnelchris Member Posts: 557 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
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    spclarkspclark Member Posts: 408
    edited November -1
    Barrels on the XIX's have integral, Weaver-style scope mount slots machined into the top rail, which is wider than the Model VII's.

    I believe the frames are otherwise identical; the safety (mentioned earlier) was an updated design that can be fitted to earlier VII's if desired, standard on later VII's and all XIX's.

    You can also contact IMI in Minneapolis (1-763-574-1868) <info@magnumresearch.com> & supply them with the s/n - they'll tell you the history of the particular frame involved.
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    interstatepawnllcinterstatepawnllc Member Posts: 9,390
    edited November -1
    Here is how you can tell. They are both GROSSLY OVERPRICED!

    "If your gonna be stupid, go find a democrat."
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    bambihunterbambihunter Member Posts: 10,685 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The VII .50 had the integral scope mounts across its top, just like all subsequent XIX models (because they were based on the .50 VII to start with).
    I'll agree that they are grossly over-priced, but geez, wrap your hands around a desert eagle and it feels like you're holding a hand cannon. [:D]
    I'd never draw a gun if I didn't intend to use it, but if you had to "pistol-whip" someone, a serious heavy weight IMI/Magnum Research Desert Eagle would be more reassuring than my Glock!
    As with any reputable firearm, the Desert Eagle will easily last a lifetime, they are very well-built.

    It doesn't matter what you shoot, just shoot it well...
    Fanatic collector of the 10mm auto.
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    spclarkspclark Member Posts: 408
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bambihunter
    ...but geez, wrap your hands around a desert eagle and it feels like you're holding a hand cannon.

    That's a fact!

    quote: As with any reputable firearm, the Desert Eagle will easily last a lifetime, they are very well-built.

    Yeah, but - unless you add $$ for the special plated ones, you'd better be sure you keep it well-oiled. Perhaps it's my sweaty hands but my VII 44 Mag tends to grow a bit of rust now & then on the trigger guard & magwell.

    Oh yeah, DON'T USE NON-JACKETED BULLETS! These weapons divert propellant gas to a small piston & cylinder (between the barrel & frame) for cycling. The lead vapor wil harden in the gas passage as well as on the piston & cylinder.
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    bambihunterbambihunter Member Posts: 10,685 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I never had any trouble with rust, it's always a good idea to clean firearms after every use. And yes spclark is correct, it is a requirement to use copper-jacketed bullets (read the manual). They don't have to be totally copper, the copper-jacketed with lead hollow-points work fine, the all lead ones will often mushroom when they hit the feed ramp with the force of the spring and thus won't fit into the bore. They used to sell a cleaning kit, although I don't see it on thier site, which allowed thorough cleaning of all essential parts.
    They are more expensive and much heavier than a similar sized wheel-gun. But they are the ultimate in semi-auto handgun power.

    It doesn't matter what you shoot, just shoot it well...
    Fanatic collector of the 10mm auto.
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