Barrel Floating

bperdue21

I bought a 7mm-08 Varmint special and when i took it apart to perform some much needed trigger work, i found it was floated with a plastic card. how well does this work or should i get rid of it?

When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns.

rollnblock

what do you mean by floated with a plastic card? is the peice of plastic under the lug? just my 2 cents but nothing beats a acra glass-gel bed.

JustC

Pics would help of this plastic as I have never encountered that in a remington. I would venture a guess that after some trigger work and the correct ammunition off a good rest, and that rifle will go well under 3/4MOA without a bedding job. Not that the bedding won't make it a bit more consistent.[;)]

I have seen what appeared to be some sort of little plastic "sheet" that was placed under the chamber area of the barrel and recoil lug area but I can't recall what type of rifle I took apart when I witnessed that. All I can figure is that the factory stock was inletted a bit large in that area and that peice of plastic was used to make the action/stock contact enough to pass factory muster with regard to accuracy. However that theory and 37cents will get you a stamp until it can be confirmed.

why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?

lowelc

I agree with both rollnblock and just c. All of the customs I built have a floated barrel with 15 ~ 20 thou clearance nuder the forend and contact only 3/4" in front of the lug. This has worked for me but is not the "blanket" anwser. I have heard that some shoot better with preasure but I have yet to find one that will. Personal loading will also make a difference. In my opinion, float the barrel and then work up the pefect load of the rifle.

bperdue21

i dont think it had anything to do with passing a factory inspection. the screws in the bottom looked like someone had taken them out. i reckon they didn't know how to adjust the trigger because the coating on the screws was still there. it was right behind the inlet in the stock. all i could figure it was for was to add some clearance from barrel to forearm. the plastic isn't like a credit card. it is one of those flexible plastic cards conformed to the forearm and chamber about 1 1/2 inches long and about 3/4 inch wide. hope this explains more, if not, i will go get the camera and take some pictures when i get up, working the graveyard shift.

When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns.

D.S.COLE

It sounds like someone did a "Bubba" job on elevating the action so that the barrel would be floated.If it fits the action well enough with the plastic removed ,you can scrape out the barrel channel to float it. If it needs glas-bedding,which cant do anything but help, then thats the way to go. It may shoot plenty good without bedding ,but I would prefer it sitting firmly in the stock with the channel scraped out rather than on the plastic. If you adjust the weight of pull screw out, be sure it clears the circular cutout in front of it in the stock. They fit so close that a lot of time when you turn it out to lighten the pull the screw tip will rub or hit against the stock there.You dont want it to touch the cutout.If it does take a small roud rasp and remove a little material to enlarge the cutout.

v35

I've heard of this. It has to do with supporting a barrel at an antinode
which will dampen a vibration. If supported at a node, a barrel will spring away from the support. Since you've probably moved the shim, that pressure point on the barrel would have to be reestablished by experimentation.
Todays' thinking is either free floating or full barrel bedding.
Unless the stock is laminated or you know it to be well seasoned wood,
go for free floating.