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I've seen the light!

FatstratFatstrat Member Posts: 9,147
edited April 2008 in Ask the Experts
I can't explain why. But for many many years I've seen Birchwood Casey "Tru-Oil" at the stores, and seen MANY user endorsements on gun forums. But never tried it.
Until now.
This stuff is the easiest and BEST stock refinish EVER. I can't believe all the time I've wasted using stains,varnishes and off-brand gunshow bought concoctions when this stuff was available so cheaply.
Call me hard headed, but I've seen the light. Better late than never.

Comments

  • bobskibobski Member Posts: 17,866 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    its the boa constrictor of snake oils!
    Retired Naval Aviation
    Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team
    Former NSSA All American
    Navy Distinguished Pistol Shot
    MO, CT, VA.
  • HandLoadHandLoad Member Posts: 15,998
    edited November -1
    Yep, the Rifle My Dad just passed down to me, a total custom job from Chick Donnelly of Siskyou Gun Works, has a Walnut stock finished in Tru-Oil - really different, and really, really beautiful.

    Over Thirty years old, and still truly pretty.
  • MIKE WISKEYMIKE WISKEY Member Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    tru oil, if done properly will bring out the best of any 'grain' in the wood. several hand rubbed coats w/sanding in between to fill the pores then a spray coat for a gloss finish (if you want one).
  • txlawdogtxlawdog Member Posts: 10,039 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Do you think this would work on wood grips also?
  • vdms55vdms55 Member Posts: 298 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    yep, use furniture stripper to remove old varnish/polyurthane. i like the kind with the guy in a flanel shirt on the can (home depot/lowes) next easy off over cleaner to pull the oil out, no worry won't hurt the wood. let it foam for a few minutes then wash it off in the kitchen sink. might need more than one dose. let the wood dry completely and get busy with the true oil. oh yeh, wear rubber gloves and a tooth brush will help get the old finish out of the checkering.
  • bobskibobski Member Posts: 17,866 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    fingers are the best way to put it on.
    and remember not to put it in the checking. checking is suppose to be finish free.
    Retired Naval Aviation
    Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team
    Former NSSA All American
    Navy Distinguished Pistol Shot
    MO, CT, VA.
  • wsfiredudewsfiredude Member Posts: 7,769 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    i like the kind with the guy in a flanel shirt on the can (home depot/lowes


    "Formby's"
  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by bobski
    fingers are the best way to put it on.
    and remember not to put it in the checking. checking is suppose to be finish free.
    I always use linseed in the checking, are you sure its supposed to be finish free?
  • rwfixemrwfixem Member Posts: 164 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    the checkering must have finish on it. THIN a small amount of finish and brush into checkering. 1 coat is all that is needed. blot up excess so as not to fill checkering when dry,
  • hissinggoosehissinggoose Member Posts: 763 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I just put the first coat on my dad's old 11-48 last night. Mixed the tru oil with a little dark walnut stain and it looks better already! First time I've tried it.
    I've used tung oil in the past for refinishing projects (furniture) and they've turned out nice, but this stuff seems to dry a lot faster and set up harder than tung. The stock was pretty much dry this morning; coated it at @ 10 last night.
    A few more coats should do it, vs 12 coats of tung...
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