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Any way to open up the neck on a die

5mmgunguy5mmgunguy Member Posts: 3,092 ✭✭
edited April 2008 in Ask the Experts
I have a seater die that I need to open up about .004 thousands. I know the die is hardened and normal things like reaming just are not going to work, I have been told it could be honed. What kind of hone would work?

Comments

  • gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Without access to a lathe, I would be wary.

    Abrasive (Polishing) compounds will take most any material off, hard or not...just a matter of time + etc.

    Valve grinding compound is the coarsest I've ever gone on anything already machined. If you try this route, you probably should go to polish grit(s) right away....then find out how close you get to your 0.004 target.[?]
    Polishing may be more forgiving, but giving up control.
    Will the bore in the die still be concentric....I dunno how close is close enough is for your 'custom die' job ?.[:D]

    I've got to ask....What has brought you to the need to do this ?
  • cussedemguncussedemgun Member Posts: 985 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Mr. Guy,

    Your question is very vague as to what you want & why you want to ruin-- er- modify said die. Methods of metal forming are many & the amount of material to be removed plus finish of the final piece will determine the best method. Also, how much expense are you willing to go to for such a custom die?

    Honing has already been mentioned. For minimal material removal, it's easiest & accurate with propper machine shop equipment.

    Anneal (heat to cherry red followed by slow controlled cooling), ream, & re-heat treat (heat to cherry red followed with an oil quench.)

    Have you considered contacting RCBS for a custom die body? Should be simple for them to make & possibly the cheapest, most accurate way to go. Why re-invent the wheel?
  • drobsdrobs Member Posts: 22,620 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think read that Lynman offers custom die bodies too.
  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by cussedemgun
    Anneal (heat to cherry red followed by slow controlled cooling), ream, & re-heat treat (heat to cherry red followed with an oil quench.)


    Ummm that kinda depends on what kind of material the die was made of in the first place, dosn't it?. Leaded steels are not heat treated after reaming, SS dies are but only to around RC-42 (and you temper SS at around 500F, well below "red hot" temps). Speaking of tempering, you never mentioned that at all. Some dies (Pacific IIRC) were not hardened at all, but simply hard chromed after reaming. Than there is the question of scaling from the oil, oxidation from the air, post HT polishing, yada yada yada
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    modifying dies without a lathe is an excersise in futility. If you can't completely true it in the jaws,...you will most likely polish/hone it out of round and have a worthless die left.

    Buy a new die with correct dimensions. You can Newlon Precision dies ground with any reamer you want,..and they will be reamed ON A LATHE.
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