scope mounting

jorgy

I mounted a new Burris 4.5-14x42 scope with medium Leupold rings on a Rem. 700 stainless 25-06. My question is there is only about 1mm of clearance between the barrel and scope, I can slide about 3 $1 bills between them. Will the barrel ever expand enough to make it touch the scope, should I get higher rings?

ben

jorgy

I'm replacing a scope on my Savage 110. The new scope is shorter that the other, so the rings don't line up with the mounts. But, I turned both mounts 180 degrees, to where they are fastened with 1 screw each and half of each mount hangs over the bolt. There is still enough clearance for the shells to be ejected properly. I think this will work, although I haven't shot it yet.(mounts & rings are Weaver)
Is this suitable? Should I use a 1 piece mount instead?
I appreciate the advice.

jorgy

need help mounting scopes. can anyone tell me what is the best tool or aid to getting the cross hairs straight and level? i have been using a gun cleaning vise and hanging a chalk line out about 30 yrds. when i tighten everything down the cross hairs still seem canted a bit when i shoulder the rifle. one rifle has the old weaver style and i know you have to start canted and they straighten when you torque them down. any advise appreciated, thanks in advance. mac.

jorgy

I have a ruger 77v heavy barrel & a bushnell scope 1" tube 6x-18x
with ao. need some advice with mounting. thanks!

JustC

the ruger rings are integral and mount to a faux dovetail in the receiver. The taller ring is the rear and shorter ring is the front.

tsr1965

Actually, that mounting system is one of the strongest for a big USA manufacturer.

You are going to need something to secure your rifle in solidly, the proper screwdrivers for the base, and ring caps, and a small torpedo lever, or a machinist protractor level.

Place the bases on the rifle, and the scope in the rings, and tighten the ring caps untill they are just loose enough to let your scope move, but secure enough that nothing is going to fall apart.

Shoulder the rifle several times, and adjust the scope so that when it comes to your shoulder that the eye relief(the distance from the eye to the ocular lens), is just enough so that you get the full picture in your scope, and not a tiny little hole. Take a pencil, or a little piece of masking tape and mark the scope tube where it meets the ring.

Secure the rifle in a gun vice or padded vice so it will not move, and remove the scope fron the rifle, by means of removing the bases while they are attached to the scope. Take your level, and make sure the rifle is level across the action, both cross wise, and length wise. Make sure the rifle can not move after this step.

Fasten the scope back onto the rifle, making the base screws are tight, and making sure not to move the rifle. Remove the top turret cap on the scope(the cap that covers the elevation adjustment). Slide the scope in the rings to the place where you marked the tube ligns up against the ring where you marked. Set the level on top of the turret, and rotate the scope in the rings untill it is level. making sure not to move the rifle or scope, tighten down the ring cap screws to secure the scope, while keepint the scope level.

This is the method I use, and it will, if done correctly insure that the scopes in verticle alignment with the bore, so as when you make an elevation adjustment, that it does not track right or left also.. Since the Ruger bases detatch quickly, you can recheck the level on your rifle, and scope, to make it is done right.

Best.

Guns & Glass

Ruger rings often have:

1. 'Square edges' and many a scope has been scratched from sliding, and ring grip lines mark the tube. Polish ring edges.

2. Suffer from misalignment thru 'stack up' between reciever & ring. When scope is mounted and W & E adjustments made they don't track properly. Use alignment pins to check. Can fix some with a brass/plastic hammer, lapping, and if severe enough use the Burris Ruger to Weaver adaptor.