hard hammer pull on old SW 32

peddler

32 SW that's made around 1920 seems to have a hard hammer pull. Also when letting the hammer down right before all the way down seems to be a rough spot. Also what does the little screw at the bottom of the grip frame do? Can hammer pull and trigger pull be adjusted with that screw? Thanks

charliemeyer007

So is it a S&W in 32 S&W or just a gun in 32 S&W. Is it a top break 5 or 6 shooter, a 32 or 32 Long?

The mechanics of a flat spring sometimes with geometry can lead to stiff hammer tension when going to full cock past where the normal double action would release. Generally the screw holds the flat spring in place and provides the initial tension, not usually considered an adjustment.

Could be crud built up in the works.

Added Does it look like this one?
http://www.nramuseum.org/the-museum/the-galleries/firearms-traditions-for-today/case-78-the-long-arm-of-the-law/smith-wesson-32-hand-ejector-model-1903-2nd-change-revolver.aspx

http://www.oldwestgunsmith.com/gunparts/32he.htm

peddler

Sorry, its a Smith Wesson 32 long, swing out cylinder. Revolver was made around 1920-21. Have not took the side plate off but did flush with gun cleaner and re-oil lightly. Usually these old Smith's have a easy hammer and trigger pull, this one just seems to be tight or a little hard. Also when hammer is returned feels like a rough spot just as hammer is almost down. I do know that on a Colt saa you can put a 1/8" piece of leather between spring and spring screw to make a easier hammer and trigger pull.

Geri

Had a S&W with the same problem. turned out to be oil/gunk etc. that hardened in the action. Take apart and clean/examine.

Txs

First thing to do with any old revolver which doesn't feel up to snuff is to totally disassemble, clean all surfaces thoroughly, lube properly, then reassemble and test.

Complete disassembly of this design isn't terribly difficult, but most go their entire lives building up crud, dried lube buildup, etc. down in there without it ever being correctly addressed.

Simply flushing out and dribbling lube into the lockwork through openings does little good. Besides the commonly encountered need to soak/scrub off old lube that's dried and hardened into a lacquer-like substance there are lots of nooks/crannies and bearing surfaces down in there that need to be dealt with.

Same as with any gun that isn't running right, only when it's in the conditon in which it was it was designed to operate can you properly diagnose mechanical issues.

peddler

Thanks to all, I will give the little revolver a good cleaning and see if that does it. Have a Happy New Year

fideau

May be the cylinder hand, or carry up lever, binding on a damaged ratchet.