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DPMS Trigger

cpeters2cpeters2 Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
edited October 2011 in Ask the Experts
I just purchased a DPMS LR308 and as I expected from some research the trigger isn't the best. The weight isn't that bad it's that it seems to stick at two points through the travel that I would like to correct. I know stoning or polishing these parts is a controversial topic so my question is what can I do to just smooth out the trigger? I do plan on upgrading this in the future so I was hoping to find a simple and cheap solution to improve upon the stock trigger until I replace it.
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    dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Stoning an issue AR trigger isn't all that difficult, but you do need to know what you're doing. I've done a few and get a clean, crisp pull in the 4 lb range without too much work. My ARs are "for fun" to include the DPMS style AR 10 and I always drop in a Rock River Arms from AR15LLC - costs about $89.00 including shipping. It's not the best, but it is always very good.
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    gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    dfletcher is on the nose with " is not all that difficult, but you do need to know what you are doing " .

    Smoothing out a trigger is certainly something I will consider, but not on a NIB gun. I still consider 'breaking in' a gun a significant part of getting to know it. Your trigger may not smooth out to your satisfaction, but consider letting the works 'wear in' a little bit before you go to work on it.

    ENJOY !
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    cpeters2cpeters2 Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for the info, I didn't want to stone it myself I was just looking to see if there was a simple alternative to help reduce those two sticky spots on the pull. But it certainly makes sense to give it some time to break in.
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    Wolf.Wolf. Member Posts: 2,223 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you have never worked on a trigger/sear arrangement before, my advice is that you do not do it at all, unless you are going to be doing a lot of them. Obviously, the first one you do is not going to be great work unless you understand what you are doing.

    This is dangerous stuff and trying to learn it here in a few replies/answers to your topic is a mistake.

    My advice is to send the gun to someone that knows exactly what they are doing. If you need advice with that, click on my UserID and email me and I will make a recommendation for your consideration.

    If you still want to try it yourself, email me and I will recommend a good DVD that discusses this trigger work in detail.
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    MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,811 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Even the factory "match" triggers are not as good as one might expect. I have some that are lighter pull but end up with a mushy break. A dropin from a reputable maker is probably the best. It does away with the tolerance differences encountered in various lowers and basically isolates the pivot and contact point from those tolerances.
    If want to install a factory type match" trigger, I prefer to buy a complete match lower parts kit. Initial cost is slightly higher but you get a bag full of extra parts in case you lose something. If you mess with the lower much, you WILL lose a spring or detent.
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