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Marlin Model 60 Receiver Coating

leoleo Member Posts: 335 ✭✭✭
edited January 2014 in Ask the Experts
What will remove the black coating from the model 60 receiver?

Thanks, Leonard.

Comments

  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I think the aluminum was originally anodized on the old ones, later ones had a baked on paint I think.

    added In high school we didn't a year out of one before they became a jam-o-matic. K-mart would give us a new one because we didn't beat up the outside, but the guts were worn out. 3 boys with lawn mowing money to burn. One of three was a really good shooter the others were ok.

    I think you could paint the outside without much issue, if the insides are gone - it's toast.
  • beantownshootahbeantownshootah Member Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There is a product called "greased lightning" that will remove an anodized coating. Anodized coatings can also be removed with lye (ie "drano", "oven cleaner").

    Either way, obviously, you don't want to breathe in the fumes, or get any on your skin.

    For paint, that depends on the paint. Some are easier than others. Epoxy-based paints are the toughest, but pretty much any of them can be blasted off with the right abrasive. Bead blasting and/or rough scotchbrite pad can probably do it.

    If you want to see how a pro did the exact thing you're asking about, see here:

    http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/gunsmithing_0706/


    Edit: Responding to below:

    Depends on exact variant and condition, but a beat up used Marlin 60 might be worth about $120.

    So in my opinion, it doesn't make sense to spend too much time, money, or effort refinishing one. You can sell the gun and buy a new one (or a newer used one), but how much is your time worth?

    At the same time, low value means that no matter WHAT you do to the gun, you can't be out all that much money, either. Realistically, the worst thing you could is mess up the receiver even worse and reduce resale value even more. But you won't go to "zero"; ie you could always get a little back from parting out the gun (eg selling stock, bolt, etc).

    And even if you totalled the receiver, replacements aren't that hard to get. EG, there is an entire barreled Marlin receiver available for sale on the auction site for $25 + $10 shipping, right now. Just a beat up serialized receiver can be had for $20 shipped. (Though serialized receivers are supposed to go through FFLs, to be clear). Again, maybe not worth your time to start rebuilding something like this, but that's up to you.

    In terms of refinish, yes. . .you want to use one. Leaving bare aluminum is a no-no, as it will potentially corrode and pit pretty easily. But presumably you're doing this for cosmetic reasons, so I'm not sure you would want/need to refinish the INSIDE of the gun! So long as you were careful putting it on, I don't see how putting a new finish/coating on the OUTSIDE of the receiver would affect its function.

    In terms of which refinish, its possible to reanodize at home, but its probably not worth the effort here. I've heard good things about Brownell's alumahyde II, and I'd take a look at that one in particular for this application.

    If you want to go cheap and easy, engine paint is relatively easy to apply, fairly tough, and would probably work fine. Depending on what you were trying to do, you might even get away with putting something like that on OVER the existing finish without extensive prep work.
  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Before you go and do something, that you think you want to do, but are going to regret, I will tell you that the "black coating" you talk about is there for a reason. It is not just solely to add color to make it look like a blue/black gun.

    That process is called in the firearms industry, Hard Coat Anodizing. You see, aluminum by itself is sticky, and will gall, and wear considerably. The anodizing adds hardness, and lubricity, so that little bolt will cycle properly.

    Those model 60 receivers, that look stainless, are still anodized, but silver in color. That's correct, Anodizing, can be had in various different colors.

    In short, I will leave you with this, that if you remove that color, you will more than likely scrap the gun, unless you re-anodize it. You might be better off, selling or mothballing the rifle, and getting the one you want.

    Best
  • wpagewpage Member Posts: 10,204 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    +1 on exchanging rather then oxidizing your Marlin.
    There is a good aftermarket for the model 60. The finish is on for a reason. Like the Ruger 10 22 there is a finish on the metal for good performance.
  • 317wc317wc Member Posts: 924 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    +1 on the advice given. I have a Model 60 that was pretty beat up. I re coated it with (I think) DuraCoat II. It has not functioned the same since. Unfinished aluminum is sticky, that is part of the reason for anodizing. My gun has experienced multiple FTF, although I don't know if its because of tighter tolerances (because of the heavier coating) or because of sticky, bare metal-on-metal contact. I'm still working on it.

    My advice, don't do it. Marlin 60's are low end guns, there is also no shame in a well used fire-arm. However there is shame in a mis-functioning gun! If its absolutely at the end of its useful life, I would consider upgrading or buying another, if you like the 60, and usingyour old one for parts.
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