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Remington Stock Refinishing

jbw1776jbw1776 Member Posts: 3,056
edited March 2006 in Ask the Experts
I've asked this before but I have a few more questions and need some specifics. A guy wants me to refinish the wood on his 742. He wants to go back with a urethane finish, like whats on it. Here's the specifics I need:
I plan on using a stripper to remove the old finish. Can I just go back with a spray urethane and the color of the wood stay about the same as it was, or was the wood stained from the factory then covered with a clear urethane? The stripper tends to remove stain if its there too. I don't want to remove the old finish, spay a clear urethane on it, and end up with a piece of wood that MUCH lighter because I was supose to stain it first. He's wanting to just do the forearm and not the buttstock, so I need them to match.
Also need some recommendations, from folks thats done this before, as to what spray product gave them good results and where to find it. I checked Brownells but they don't have any spray urethanes listed on their site.
If its any help, this is a picture of a similar one. It has the darker walnut wood from the mid to late 70's. Thanks for your help!

skvsrp.jpg

Ben

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    dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've used Jasco and it does bleed out some of the stain. I took the same route you described and although I came close, the forearm just did not quite match the stock.

    Maybe others can advise where to get spray on polycoat. Doing the forearm only seems to me a guarantee that the fellow is going to be disappointed - kind of like refinishing 1/2 a table top.

    If I were being paid for this I think I'd pass or give a price for butt & forestock. If not being paid I'd volunteer to do butt & forestock.
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    gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You may be on your own, but I refinished an early '70's wingmaster using an oil finish over stripped wood. The color was nearly original, a little darker, but not much.

    You will have to re-finish it all though if you want them to match.

    You will need to test a spot where it doesn't show to find out for sure, no matter what feedback you get. Take your time. Good luck.
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    jbw1776jbw1776 Member Posts: 3,056
    edited November -1
    Thanks ya'll. That was my first impression, that I'd never match the two. I'm still unclear about if the factory stained the wood then clear coated? Is stain gonna be a step I'll have to take if I want a similar color to original? Thanks for the help!

    Ben
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    mrbrucemrbruce Member Posts: 3,374
    edited November -1
    More than likely you will need to do the fore arm to guarantee a correct color match up.
    They were stained at the factory the last I knew.
    Your local hardware has a product called Minwax Helmsmen Spar urethane, in a Clear Semi Gloss, a Clear Gloss, and a Satain Clear.
    The Clear Gloss is close to the original factory coat.
    This stuff is as good as it gets.....
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    D.S.COLED.S.COLE Member Posts: 611 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    the spar urethane Mr Bruce named is right on the money,I use it all the time. Walmart carries it,6 bucks a spray can.
    after you get it stripped and sanded put a little patch of it on the wood to see the color ,if it needs to be darker sand off the patch and stain it.
    I put masking tape around and over the checkering ,trim it off even with a razor blade,you dont want to fill the checkering with the varnish.after its done remove the tape and put a little finish in the checkering with a drop or two on an old tooth brush.
    good luck
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    jbw1776jbw1776 Member Posts: 3,056
    edited November -1
    Thanks! Thats exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering about the checkering, but forgot to ask. I'll take ya'lls advice. Thanks again.

    Ben
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