In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

S&W Revolver PINNED but not RECESSED?

Buster384Buster384 Member Posts: 12 ✭✭
edited June 2003 in Ask the Experts
I have been looking to purchase a revolver .38 or .357 and have been looking primariy at Colt, S&W and Taurus. I have come across a number of guns that are described as either "Pinned but not Recessed" or "Recessed but not Pinned". Can you please help me define the meaning of these statements. Also, in inspecting a revolver for wear, what should I be most concerned with in a used revolver?
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • Buster384Buster384 Member Posts: 12 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have been looking to purchase a revolver .38 or .357 and have been looking primariy at Colt, S&W and Taurus. I have come across a number of guns that are described as either "Pinned but not Recessed" or "Recessed but not Pinned". Can you please help me define the meaning of these statements. Also, in inspecting a revolver for wear, what should I be most concerned with in a used revolver?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • AmpersandAmpersand Member Posts: 235 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Before the early 1980's S&W drilled a small hole through the frame and rear part of the barrel on their revolvers and put small drift pin through it to help hold the barrel in place. This is the "pinned." On some guns, like the .22's and magnums, they counter bored the chambers to enclose the case rim. This is the "recessed." After 1982 or 1983 these were dropped. A gun like a .38 Special was never recessed, only the .22 and magnum calibers were. The guns work fine without these things and they were dropped to save money. Some people prefer the "P&R" guns and will pay extra for them.

    Colt never had these things on any of their guns. I don't know about Taurus.

    &
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • duckhunterduckhunter Member Posts: 7,687 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    WHAT YOU LEARN ON THIS SITE. AFTER 50 YEARS I DID NOT KNOW ONLY 22LR AND 22 MAG SMITHS WERE P&R. I COULD HAVE SWORN I HAD A 19 THAT WAS P&R. AS USUAL I WAS WRONG??

    I WOULD RATHER BE DUCK HUNTING.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • redcedarsredcedars Member Posts: 919 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Buster:

    Aside from the overall finish and appearance, including the bore condition, timing would be the critical factor in a revolver. Timing is the coordination of the cylinder lock up with the fall of the hammer, so that the chamber in the cylinder is locked up in the correct position when the hammer hits the primer and fires the cartridge.

    In a nutshell, obtain permission to work the action of the gun. If snap caps are available, use them, otherwise you should hold the hammer so it does not slam forward. Draw back the hammer, observing the locking mechanism in the bottom of the cylinder recess of the frame. The latch should rise up and lock the cylinder without dragging on the cylinder. Holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently drop the hammer; the cylinder should be locked tight when the hammer falls.

    It is a really good idea to use a range rod to check cylinder alignment; this tool is a bore diameter rod which is inserted into the barrel and down through the cylinder to make sure the cylinder chamber is correctly aligned with the barrel.

    If you are not familiar with firearms, it would be best if you only purchased used firearms from a well established and reputable dealer who will stand behind the gun. In the meantime, pick up a book on basic gunsmithing that has revolver information.

    redcedars
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • fort_knoxfort_knox Member Posts: 263 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by duckhunter
    WHAT YOU LEARN ON THIS SITE. AFTER 50 YEARS I DID NOT KNOW ONLY 22LR AND 22 MAG SMITHS WERE P&R. I COULD HAVE SWORN I HAD A 19 THAT WAS P&R. AS USUAL I WAS WRONG??

    I WOULD RATHER BE DUCK HUNTING.


    Other S&W's were P&R also. I have a model 29 .44 mag that has these features. It's an early model.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • fort_knoxfort_knox Member Posts: 263 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by redcedars
    Buster:

    Aside from the overall finish and appearance, including the bore condition, timing would be the critical factor in a revolver. Timing is the coordination of the cylinder lock up with the fall of the hammer, so that the chamber in the cylinder is locked up in the correct position when the hammer hits the primer and fires the cartridge.

    In a nutshell, obtain permission to work the action of the gun. If snap caps are available, use them, otherwise you should hold the hammer so it does not slam forward. Draw back the hammer, observing the locking mechanism in the bottom of the cylinder recess of the frame. The latch should rise up and lock the cylinder without dragging on the cylinder. Holding the hammer back, pull the trigger and gently drop the hammer; the cylinder should be locked tight when the hammer falls.

    It is a really good idea to use a range rod to check cylinder alignment; this tool is a bore diameter rod which is inserted into the barrel and down through the cylinder to make sure the cylinder chamber is correctly aligned with the barrel.

    If you are not familiar with firearms, it would be best if you only purchased used firearms from a well established and reputable dealer who will stand behind the gun. In the meantime, pick up a book on basic gunsmithing that has revolver information.

    redcedars



    Interesting about the "range rod". I learned something. That's a good idea! I remember catching a lead sliver in the forearm from a cheap .22 revolver I was standing adjacent to when it was fired...shaved some of the bullet off and hit me in the forearm...nothing serious luckily.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • chuckchuck Member Posts: 4,911
    edited November -1
    I have a model 19 that is P&R, dont know when it was built. And I dont care, it shoots great.[:D][:D][:D]
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • AmpersandAmpersand Member Posts: 235 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Duckhunter, I said the .22's and the magnums. As in all magnums, not just the .22 magnum. Any 357 mag, 41 mag, or 44 mag made before about 1983 should be recessed. Same with .22 rim fires.

    &
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • JudgeColtJudgeColt Member Posts: 1,790 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Somehow, the point has been missed that the recessed guns in hte past were ALL rimfires and ALL Magnum centerfires. Non-Magnum guns, except rimfires, were not recessed. Therefore, .22LR, .22WMR, .357, .41 and .44 Magnums were recessed.

    All barrels were pinned until the feature was dropped. Therefore, if the revolver were, for example, a .38 Special, it would have been pinned, but not recessed. Likewise, a newer rimfire will still be recessed but not pinned.

    The pinned and recessed features are two of the things that make early Smith & Wesson revolvers so special.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Buster384Buster384 Member Posts: 12 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks to everyone for all the input. Not only have a learned a great deal about P&R, but now will also seek a qualified gunsmith to inspect whatever revolver I choose.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • queeksdrawqueeksdraw Member Posts: 274 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The pinned and recessed features are two of the things that make early Smith & Wesson revolvers so special.


    I can't say how happy I am to read those words. I'm doing my Snoopy dance now.

    You'v gota kill it to grill it
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.