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Getting started in Blackpowder reloading, Sharps??

cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
edited June 2003 in Ask the Experts
Hi all
Within the next few months i'll be buying a Sharps rifle. I want one of the true buffalo hunter calibers, im leaning towards the .45-120 or maybe the .45-110 (i think).

Problem is i really dont know a thing about loading blackpowder, paper patching, what equipment i would need, etc. Im told its not really that hard to do, but i need to know how to get started safely.

Anyone who has loaded blackpowder before or does currently, i could really use some help. (books, equipment, loads, techniques, etc.)
Any help is much appreciated!!
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    woodsrunnerwoodsrunner Member Posts: 5,378 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    http://www.blackpowderspg.com/mag.html

    I highly recomend you send for a free sample of this magazine.

    I had a long response all typed out but lost it somehow.

    Remember half the fun is making your own equipment. The art of loading BP isn't incredibly different than smokeless. You will need a drop tube to compact your powder without crushing it. You can make your own like I did from a copper closet supply tube from your local plumbing supply house. You'll need to rig a way to securely hold it vertical, also 2 powder funnels for top and bottom. I also recomend you invest in a wad punch. You can buy wads pre made but it gets expensive and a punch allows you to experiment with different materials. I used the powder horn & measure from my muzzle loaders to dispense powder charges.

    When you get going, if you have a specific problem, ask me I'll help if I can.

    Woods

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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    woods: thanks for the link and the offer. What is your opinion on my caliber choice, the .45-120? Would i be better off getting a
    45-70?
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    woodsrunnerwoodsrunner Member Posts: 5,378 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    45/70 brass is cheap and plentiful. If you get the other calibers, sometimes the quality of the available brass isn't that great. Bertram for example has a pretty bad reputation for poor case life.

    The 45/70 and 44/77 were I believe the most common calibers in the original guns. 44/77's are made from 43 Spanish basic brass.

    If you are getting your gun from one of the domestic makers, not an import. My choice would be 40/70 Sharps Straight. Brass can be made by fireforming 30/40 krag or 303 British brass, also 405 winchester brass is almost an exact interchange. That's what mine will be, if I ever get the funds together to get one. I also recomend the 50/70 and 40/65 calibers. But as I said, I want a 40/70 Straight. Very traditional, plenty of knockdown power should I decide to hunt with it. Pretty accurate from what I hear. All these calibers are fairly easy to get brass for. That would be my only concern with the big 110 and 120.

    So far my experience has been limited to an original trapdoor 45/70, a H&R Handi gun in 45/70 and a pair of Rolling blocks, A Navy arms replica in 50/70 and a rebarreled Remington in 40/65.

    I just sent you an email.


    Woods

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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Woods-

    Thanks again. The email address in my profile is incorrect (still!!), ive tried to put my real address in before but it didnt stay, so ill try again. My email address is:

    cwinn@exite.com

    If you would kindly send the afformentioned message to this address id be much obliged. Thanks again
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    mazo kidmazo kid Member Posts: 648 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Just my opinion, but I would shy away from the 45-120. I had one once (Shiloh #1) and it fouled badly, quickly. As a result, accuracy suffered. I know some are shooting this caliber and are OK with it. Recoil shooting from the bench was not pleasant, either. My heaviest caliber now is in 45-90, a Browning BPCR and I love it! As "Woods" suggests, either a 40-65 or 45-70 would be my suggestion for a first rifle. Brass and reloading dies, etc. are widely available and inexpensive. If shooting the 44-70 or 90, 40-70 SS, or any of the more obsolete calibers, another great source for brass and equipment is Dave Gullo at Buffalo Arms, www.buffaloarms.com Emery

    "Well done is better than well said"
    Ben Franklin
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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Ok, after considering your suggestions i may just go with the good ol' 45/70. The thing is, even though i might not be in actualy competitions, i enjoy shooting long distances and im not sure the 45/70 could handle much range, or am i wrong?? I know the 45/70 is suitable for big game but what about long distances?
    Also, can the Sharps replicas handle the high powered loads like those from Garret and Buffalo Bore??

    Thanks again!!
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    woodsrunnerwoodsrunner Member Posts: 5,378 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    My emails keep bouncing back. Drop me a line.
    As for the 45/70 as a long range cartridge. In the begining of BPCR most shooters were shooting 45/70's because that was what was most readily available. The trend turned towards the 40's and 38's more as a concern for recoil than a lack of accuracy. Keep in mind all the big BP cartridges have trajectories that more resemble rainbows than modern flat shooters. Like I said before the most popular of the original sharps cartridges was the 45/70.

    As for the loads you mention, I have no experience with them. I have read that there is a company out there making 45/70 cartridges meant only for the Ruger #1. These loads approach 458 Winchester pressures and while the modern sharps replicas are plenty strong, they do have several old time features to be aware of. The biggest being the exposed hammer and firing pin. For that reason I'd avoid those high pressure loads, I'd hate to have a primer get pierced and get a face full of gasses.

    Woods

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    IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    cwinn, you can obtain brass for the shorter (up to .45-90) cartridges readily from domestic sources. Domestic brass for the big Sharps rounds is available through RCBS or Bell (which I believe is the source for the RCBS offerings), but it is pricey. But, for almost as much, you can get the Bertram stuff [xx(] . . . I've never used the Bertram, but I have a customer in the Netherlands who paid me top dollar plus for some custom order Winchester brass I squirreled away in the 1970s because it is so superior to the Bertram product. I've yet to hear a postive comment about the Bertram products. Starline also makes .45-90 brass for a very reasonable price and it has proven to be good quality to the degree I've used it. As others have noted, Buffalo Arms carries many obsolete calibers and while I don't know the manufacturer, I have heard positive comments about the quality.

    I believe Dixie Gun Works carries kits for making your own paper patches. I did it at one time for some customers. I cannot find my templates now, but I used parchment paper (available from speciality cooking suppliers) and the customers were pleased with it.

    One big safety issue with BP is to be darn sure there is no airspace in the case, so if you want to load something less than a full power round, you need to be sure to use a filler of some sort on top of the powder.
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    mazo kidmazo kid Member Posts: 648 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    As far as long distance shooting with the 45-70, I have a couple of friends who shoot 1000 yard matches with them, using black powder. The only thing is, there are minimum velocity rules in effect to keep the bullets from "raining" in on the target pullers, so my friends have to duplex load the 45-70s to meet that minimum. The longer calibers seem to make that minimum OK. Just depends on your definition of "long distance"; up to 600 yds or so, the 45-70 would be OK. Emery

    "Well done is better than well said"
    Ben Franklin
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